Validation of a new in vitro Sun Protection Factor method to include a wide range of sunscreen product emulsion types.

In 2017, Cosmetics Europe performed a double-blinded ring test of 24 emulsion-type sunscreen products, across 3 in vivo test laboratories and 3 in vitro test laboratories, using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method. Based on the results of this work, an article was published showing how data derived from a new lead candidate method conform to new International Standards (ISO) acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods (Any alternative method should consider the matrix effect and if required, specify the matrix applicability of the method; Criterion 1a: Systematic differences between methods should be negligible: 95% of all individual results of an alternative method are within the range of ±2× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method, that is overall bias must be below 0.5× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method; Criterion 1b: Measurement uncertainty of an alternative method should be below the measurement uncertainty of the in vivo method.

Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF.

Objective: The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema ("sunburn"). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a "false sense of security".

Encapsulation of Emulsion Droplets with Metal Shells for Subsequent Remote, Triggered Release.

A two-step method to encapsulate an oil core with an impermeable shell has been developed. A thin metallic shell is deposited on the surface of emulsion droplets stabilized by metal nanoparticles. This thin shell is shown to prevent diffusion of the oil from within the core of the metal-shell microcapsules when placed in a continuous phase that fully dissolves the oil.

A Tiered Approach for the Evaluation of the Safety of Botanicals Used as Dietary Supplements: An Industry Strategy.

Exposure to botanicals in dietary supplements is increasing across many geographies; with increased expectations from consumers, regulators, and industry stewards centered on quality and safety of these products. We present a tiered approach to assess the safety of botanicals, and an in silico decision tree to address toxicity data gaps. Tier 1 describes a Threshold of Toxicologic Concern (TTC) approach that can be used to assess the safety of conceptual levels of botanicals.

Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing.

Objective: The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria.

Methods: Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were tested by three test institutes using the current ISO24444:2010 In Vivo SPF Test Method and simultaneously by three separate test laboratories using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method, developed under the leadership of Cosmetics Europe (CE). The resulting relationship between in vitro SPF and in vivo SPF values was then compared with acceptance criteria developed recently by the International Standards (ISO) TC217/WG7 Sun Protection Test Methods Working Group.

The effect of skin surface topography and skin colouration cues on perception of male facial age, health and attractiveness.

Objective: Previous studies investigating the effects of skin surface topography and colouration cues on the perception of female faces reported a differential weighting for the perception of skin topography and colour evenness, where topography was a stronger visual cue for the perception of age, whereas skin colour evenness was a stronger visual cue for the perception of health. We extend these findings in a study of the effect of skin surface topography and colour evenness cues on the perceptions of facial age, health and attractiveness in males.

Methods: Facial images of six men (aged 40 to 70 years), selected for co-expression of lines/wrinkles and discolouration, were manipulated digitally to create eight stimuli, namely, separate removal of these two features (a) on the forehead, (b) in the periorbital area, (c) on the cheeks and (d) across the entire face.

In vitro pharmacology of ambroxol: Potential serotonergic sites of action.

Aims: Ambroxol is a muco-active agent with multiple, clinically relevant effects in the airway. Despite its widespread use and well documented clinical efficacy, there are few data on its mechanism of action and receptor pharmacology beyond sodium channel blockade and inhibition of guanylate cyclase. Accordingly, in vitro studies were conducted to determine its overall receptor pharmacology and possible sites of action.

Visual Perception of British Women's Skin Color Distribution in Two Nonindustrialized Societies, the Maasai and the Tsimane'.

In women with lightly pigmented skin in particular, facial skin color homogeneity decreases with age, primarily due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), leading to a decrease in perceived health and attractiveness. Perception of female skin may be influenced by continuous exposure to, and thus familiarity with, age-related changes in visible skin condition in a given society. Men and women of two traditional societies, the Maasai (Tanzania) and the Tsimane' (Bolivia), unfamiliar with lighter colored skin, judged images of British women's facial skin for age, health, and attractiveness.

In silico approach to safety of botanical dietary supplement ingredients utilizing constituent-level characterization.

Botanicals used in dietary supplements industry can have toxicology concerns related to endpoint gaps that cannot be fully resolved by a history of use, or existence of conflicting safety data. However, traditional toxicological studies on botanicals are scientifically and pragmatically challenging due to testing of complex mixtures of constituents, cost, time, and animal usage. Alternatively, we developed an in silico decision-tree approach to address data gaps and inform need for further studies by toxicologically evaluating the chemical composition of botanicals.

A randomized controlled trial to evaluate the effect of a new skincare regimen on skin barrier function in those with podoconiosis in Ethiopia.

Background: Podoconiosis affects an estimated 3 million people in Ethiopia with a further 19 million at risk. Volcanic soil and pathogens enter skin breaches in the feet causing inflammation, lymphoedema and hyperkeratosis. There is no robust evidence on optimal podoconiosis skincare regimens to improve skin barrier function (SBF).

Determination of the Action Spectrum of UVR-Induced Mitochondrial DNA Damage in Human Skin Cells.

Biological responses of human skin to UVR including cancer and aging are largely wavelength-dependent, as shown by the action spectra of UVR-induced erythema and nuclear DNA (nDNA) damage. A molecular dosimeter of UVR exposure is therefore required. Although mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) damage has been shown to be a reliable and sensitive biomarker of UVR exposure in human skin, its wavelength dependency is unknown.