Study of skin anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory effects of dihydroquercetin, natural triterpenoids, and their synthetic derivatives.

Accessible triterpenoids of ursane and lupane series, the flavonoid dihydroquercetin and their synthetic derivatives with polar substituentss were tested in vitro for inhibition of collagenase 1 (MMP-1) in UVB irradiation assay. Ursolic acid and uvaol disuccinate were the most active inhibitors in the ursane series. In the lupane series, the best inhibition was manifested by carboxymethyl ester of betulonic acid and betulin succinates.

Valproic acid induces hair regeneration in murine model and activates alkaline phosphatase activity in human dermal papilla cells.

Background: Alopecia is the common hair loss problem that can affect many people. However, current therapies for treatment of alopecia are limited by low efficacy and potentially undesirable side effects. We have identified a new function for valproic acid (VPA), a GSK3β inhibitor that activates the Wnt/β-catenin pathway, to promote hair re-growth in vitro and in vivo.

Fabrication of pseudo-ceramide-based lipid microparticles for recovery of skin barrier function.

The recovery of skin barrier functions was investigated with pseudo-ceramide-based lipid microparticles. The microparticles were prepared by using a fluid bed technique where lipid components (a pseudo-ceramide, cholesterol and a fatty acid) were coated on a sugar seed, and a polymer was subsequently coated on the lipid microparticles. The microparticles contained large amount of pseudo-ceramide, and the pseudo-ceramide was in the form of lamellar structures mixed with other lipid components.

Fabrication of microgel-in-liposome particles with improved water retention.

Corneocytes represents the main water reservoir of stratum corneum, and that ability intimately arises from their architecture and total composition. Here we describe a novel method for fabricating a microgel-in-liposome (M-i-L) structure consisting of a sodium hyaluronate microgel and a lipid membrane envelop in order to mimic corneocyte cell structures. The essence of our approach is to use a lecithin-based microemulsion with a very low interfacial tension between the water droplet and oil continuous phase.

Amentoflavone inhibits UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression through the modulation of AP-1 components in normal human fibroblasts.

Amentoflavone is a well-known biflavonoid that has diverse biological effects. Previously, we reported that amentoflavone suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in normal human fibroblasts (NHF). We investigated the effects of amentoflavone on UVB-induced MMP-1 expression in order to elucidate its mode of action.

Polymer-hybridized liposomes anchored with alkyl grafted poly(asparagine).

Polymer-hybridized liposomes (PHLs) of saturated lecithin were formed by association of poly(asparagines) grafted with alkyl chains (PAsn-g-Cn). The thermal, physical, and surface properties of the polymer-hybridized liposomes were examined with varying polymer concentration, alkyl chain length (C(8), C(12), C(18), C(22)), and degree of substitution (DS) in the polymer. The inclusion of the polymer raised the membrane fluidity of liposomes.

Inhibition effect of Gynura procumbens extract on UV-B-induced matrix-metalloproteinase expression in human dermal fibroblasts.

Ethnopharmacological Relevance: Gynura procumbens Merr. (Asteraceae) has been used as a traditional remedy for various skin diseases in certain areas of Southeast Asia.

Aim Of The Study: In order to evaluate the protective activity of Gynura procumbens extract on skin photoaging and elucidate its mode of action.

Inhibitory effect of panduratin A isolated from Kaempferia panduarata Roxb. on melanin biosynthesis.

Hyperpigmentation disorders are associated with abnormal accumulation of melanin pigments, thus melanin synthesis inhibitors have been of great interest as target molecules for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro inhibitory effect of panduratin A, isolated from Kaempferia pandurata Roxb., on melanogenesis and its related enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2) in melan-a murine melanocytes.

Silicone oil emulsions stabilized by semi-solid nanostructures entrapped at the interface.

Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions are typically stabilized using water-soluble surfactants, which anchor to the surface of oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous solution. The structure of the anchored surfactants is often susceptible to physical and chemical stresses because of their highly mobile properties. Here we introduce a new approach to prepare stable silicone oil emulsions under various external stresses using a water-insoluble amphiphilic block copolymer, poly(ethylene oxide)-b-poly(epsilon-caprolactone) (PEO-b-PCL).

Fabrication and characterization of pseudo-ceramide-based liposomal membranes.

We present a facile and straightforward method to fabricate liposomal membranes with a significantly stable lamellar structure consisting of pseudo-ceramide, fatty acid, and cholesterol. Characterizing their membrane properties, in which we have used differential scanning calorimetry, X-ray diffraction, and FT-IR spectra, enables us to demonstrate that pseudo-ceramide with appropriate amounts of stearic acid and cholesterol can assemble to form a stable lamellar alpha-phase. Moreover, we show that cholesterol is indeed important and plays a role in controlling the melting entropy of lipid membranes, which is attributed to a disordered molecular packing, thus creating more flexible liposomal membranes.

The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritation.

The pH of the healthy skin is 5.5 and maintained by many regulatory mechanisms. The pH of the skin care product we use on a daily basis can have an influence on the skin properties.

Control over micro-fluidity of liposomal membranes by hybridizing metal nanoparticles.

This study introduces a facile method to hybridize metal nanoparticles with lipid vesicles, which allows us to control over their membrane micro-fluidity. We have fabricated these hybrid liposomes by directly hybridizing metal nanoparticles with lipid bilayers solely consisting of 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphatidylcholine (DPPC). For this, we have used the dehydration and rehydration method.

Red pigment from Lithospermum erythrorhizon by supercritical CO2 extraction.

In this study, a stable red pigment was prepared from Lithospermum erythrorhizon via supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. The optimal extraction conditions were 400 bar and 60 degrees C. The patch tests indicated that up to 10% of the red pigment was acceptable from a skin irritation standpoint.

Discrimination of teas with different degrees of fermentation by SPME-GC analysis of the characteristic volatile flavour compounds.

As tea is traded all over the world, it is necessary for both customs officers and business investigators to develop an easy and reliable method to discriminate teas from each other. A total of 56 kinds of various green, Oolong, and black teas were collected from different countries and markets, and their catechin contents and volatile flavour compounds (VFC) were compared by analyses, using HPLC and solid-phase microextraction-gas chromatograph (SPME-GC). It was found that neither total catechin nor individual catechin contents in green and Oolong teas were significantly different among the samples investigated, but the fermentation processes altered the profiles of tea VFC.

Alternative evaluation method in vitro for the water-resistant effect of sunscreen products.

Background/purpose: Sunscreen products today represent a trend of providing not only simple sun protection factor (SPF)/protection of UVA (PFA) but also other additional benefits. For example, as popularized by seasonless use of sunscreens, the special function of water resistance or sand proof is added to sunscreens as well as for leisure. Because a human in vivo test is time consuming and expensive, a screening process has been tried using an accurate in vitro system.

Enhanced depigmenting effects of N-glycosylation inhibitors delivered by pH-sensitive liposomes into HM3KO melanoma cells.

Delivery activity of pH-sensitive 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoethanolamine (DOPE):cholesteryl hemisuccinate (CHEMS) liposomes was assessed as an in vitro intracellular carrier system to increase the bioavailability of depigmentation actives. N-glycosylation inhibitors have a glycosylation-inhibiting effect, which is useful for the skin depigmentation that operates by interfering with the maturation of tyrosinase. However, an N-glycosylation inhibitor does not easily pass through skin or even cellular membranes due to its water-soluble property.

Preparation of liposomes containing oleanolic acid via micelle-to-vesicle transition.

Micelle-to-vesicle transition method was used to make liposomes containing oleanolic acid. First, the solubilization of potassium salt of oleanolic acid at basic condition by micelle formation was confirmed. Using the soluble state of oleanolic acid at basic condition, liposomes containing oleanolic acid was prepared by adjusting pH.

Biflavonoids isolated from Selaginella tamariscina regulate the expression of matrix metalloproteinase in human skin fibroblasts.

The methanol extract from Selaginella tamariscina significantly inhibited UV irradiation induced activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in primary fibroblasts from human skin. Using the technique of bioassay-directed chromatographic separation, five biflavonoids were isolated from the ethyl acetate soluble fraction of S. tamariscina.

Influence of polyol and oil concentration in cosmetic products on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness.

Background/purpose: The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimum combination of polyols and oils in moisturizing cosmetic products to improve the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils are essential ingredients in skin care products, but it is still not understood how their concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin. We investigated the effect of polyol and oil concentration on skin properties by noninvasive methods.

Quantitative characterization of degradation behaviors of antioxidants stabilized in lipid particles.

This study describes a flexible approach that allows us to characterize the long-term stability of antioxidants by using a thermodynamically extended Arrhenius equation. We use retinol, Vitamin A, as a model antioxidant and its degradation behaviors are characterized for both stabilized and non-stabilized systems; in this study, by using a fluid bed technique, we immobilize the retinol in lipid particles, thus increasing its thermal stability in complex formulations, such as aqueous polymer gels and emulsions. Our approach demonstrates that the degradation behaviors of the retinol show a functional relationship with temperature and time, which makes it possible to use the Arrhenius approach.

Long acting porous microparticle for pulmonary protein delivery.

This study investigated the porous-microparticle (PM) with low mass density and large size for pulmonary drug delivery. PM was prepared by the water-in-oil-in-water (W(1)/O/W(2)) multi-emulsion method with cyclodextrin derivative as a porogen and a stabilizer of peptide drugs. Herein, sucrose ethyl acetate (SAIB) was incorporated in PM for long acting protein release.

Influence of N-glycan processing disruption on tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in HM3KO melanoma cells.

Tyrosinase, a type I membrane glycoprotein, is synthesized and glycosylated in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) and Golgi. The enzyme is subsequently transported to melanosomes where it participates in melanogenesis. Previous studies showed that the disruption of early ER N-glycan processing by deoxynojirimycin (DNJ), an inhibitor of alpha-glucosidase, suppresses tyrosinase enzymatic activity and melanogenesis.

Protein release behavior from porous microparticle with lysozyme/hyaluronate ionic complex.

Porous microparticles (PMs) with a low density (<0.4 g/cm3) for pulmonary protein delivery were prepared by the water-in-oil-in-water (W1/O/W2) multi-emulsion method using a cyclodextrin derivative as a porogen. The complexation of positively charged lysozyme (Lys) and negative-charged hyaluronate (HA) was investigated for long-term protein release from PMs.

A novel volumetric method for quantitation of titanium dioxide in cosmetics.

Nowadays there are many sun-protection cosmetics incorporating organic or inorganic UV filters as active ingredients. Chemically stable inorganic sunscreen agents, usually metal oxides, are widely employed in high-SPF (sun protection factor) products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters.