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Background: Sebum physiology and its contributions to acne vulgaris (AV) pathophysiology have been long debated. Within the pilosebaceous unit, androgens drive sebocyte production of sebum, comprising mono-, di-, and triglycerides (the latter converted to fatty acids); squalene; cholesterol; cholesterol esters; and wax esters. Upon release to the skin surface, human sebum has important roles in epidermal water retention, antimicrobial defenses, and innate immune responses.

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Quantitative evaluation of sebum lipid components with nuclear magnetic resonance.

J Lipid Res

March 2008

Pfizer Global Research and Development, Michigan Laboratories, Ann Arbor, MI 48105, USA.

A NMR spectroscopic method is described that enables the quantitation of specific lipid classes and components, independent of fatty acid composition. We demonstrate this method for measuring cholesterol, squalene, and pools of sterol esters, wax esters (WEs), and triglyceride (TG) components in sebum and meibum. When 600 MHz NMR equipment is used in conjunction with highly sensitive cryogenically cooled probes, this method has adequate sensitivity, and for some applications, advantages over commonly used HPLC-evaporative light-scattering detection and mass spectrometry-based approaches.

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(1) Several cases of sometimes extensive skin lesions caused by epidermal stripping during wax epilation have been observed in women on oral isotretinoin. (2) Patients taking isotretinoin must be warned that their skin may be fragile and that they should thus avoid wax epilation.

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