A Functional Skincare Formulation Mixed With Retinyl Propionate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, and Vitamin C on Antiaging and Whitening Han Women in Shanghai, China.

Background: Human skin is remodeled as a result of aging. Retinoids (or retinol derivatives) can intervene in this process, which can be optimally formulated and concentrated by providing maximum antiaging effects with minimal irritation.

Aims: To determine the optimal ratio of two retinol derivatives hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), retinol propionate (RP), and vitamin C (VitC) in dermal remodeling and preventing skin aging, and to investigate their synergistic antiaging and whitening effects in vitro and in vivo.

Methods: An in vitro model of human skin fibroblast (HSF) was established to evaluate the cellular viability of VitC and/or RP/HPR treatment. We quantified the expression of genes associated with antiaging and retinol receptors in HSFs treated with VitC and/or RP/HPR. The research was conducted on 120 volunteer women to quantify the antiaging efficacy of functional skincare formulation.

Results: A combination of VitC and RP/HPR at a weight ratio of 40:3 achieved the optimal and safe antiaging performance in vitro. Transcription of aging-associated genes and the release of elastin and senescence-associated secretory phenotypes (SASPs) increased significantly after UV irradiation, whereas VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment can inhibit this increase. The synergistic stimulation of VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment showed higher efficacy in the recovery ability of skin injury.

Conclusions: Our results indicated the advanced skin antiaging and whitening effects of VitC and RP/HPR cotreatment in vitro and in vivo. A combination of VitC and RP/HPR is a potent strategy to postpone skin aging and improve skin whitening for middle-aged women.

Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov identifier: 2020-LS-023.