Functional properties and skin care effects of sodium trehalose sulfate.

Background: It is known that heparinoid, a mucopolysaccharide polysulfate, is effective in improving rough skin and promoting blood circulation as medicines for diseased areas. However, heparinoid has a molecular weight of more than 5000 and cannot penetrate healthy stratum corneum.

Objective: We tested the efficacy of sulfated oligosaccharides with a molecular weight of less than 2000 on the human skin barrier function and moisturizing function.

Methods: We measured the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of a three-dimensional human epidermis model cultured for 3 days after topical application of sulfated oligosaccharides, then observed the effects on TEWL suppression. The mRNA levels of proteins involved in intercellular lipid transport and storage in the stratum corneum, and moisture retention were measured using RT-qPCR.

Results: An increase in the mRNA levels of the ATP-binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12), which transports lipids into stratum granulosum, was confirmed. Increases were also observed in the mRNA levels of filaggrin (FLG), which is involved in the generation of natural moisturizing factors, and of caspase-14, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, which are involved in the degradation of FLG. Antibody staining confirmed that the application of sodium trehalose sulfate to 3D model skin resulted in more ABCA12, ceramide, transglutaminase1, and FLG than those in controls. In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study, participants with low stratum corneum water content applied a lotion and emulsion containing sodium trehalose sulfate to their faces for 4 weeks. Sodium trehalose sulfate decreased the TEWL and increased the stratum corneum water content.

Conclusion: These results suggest that cosmetics containing sodium trehalose sulfate act on the epidermis by increasing barrier factors and moisturizing factors, thereby ameliorating dry skin.