In silico and in vitro evaluation of a safety profile of a cosmetic ingredient: 4-methoxychalcone (4-MC).

Chalcone is an important scaffold within medicinal and cosmetic chemistry. The structure enables multiple modifications which may result in obtaining compounds with desirable bioactivity. One of the chalcone derivatives, 4-methoxychalcone is a known cosmetic ingredient indexed in Cosing database as an antioxidant, bleaching, and skin conditioning substance. We investigated its in silico and in vitro safety profile. In silico study using Derek Nexus showed its potential of skin sensitisation, equivocal nature of chromosome damage in vitro in mammals, but also no mutagenic properties. In vitro research proved its activity as melanogenesis inhibitor in B16F10 cell line at the doses 12.5-3.125 μM. Evaluations performed in various cell lines showed that the cytotoxic doses were 50-25 μM. Tests in Episkin™ proved its ability to penetrate across epidermis and enabled classification of 2% formulation in PEG as non-irritant. In micronucleus tests it showed no genotoxicity. Studies in Cunninghamella echinulata model proved that 4-methoxychalcone was metabolised to less lipophilic products. 4-methoxychalcone showed phototoxic potential, its EC(+UV) = 3.57 μg/mL, PIF = 10.19 and MPE = 0.428 were comparable to chlorpromazine. Moreover, 4-methoxychalcone showed ecotoxic potential in Microtox® assay with EC(5 min) = 0.0047 mg/L and EC(15 min) = 0.0033 mg/L. Although active doses were lower than toxic ones, some potential safety risks were noticed. Especially, due to the phototoxicity potential of 4-methoxychalcone, its use as depigmenting agent should involve avoidance of sunlight and use of appropriate photoprotection.