Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C on the Appearance of Wrinkles: A Systematic Literature Review.

Purpose: A rise in market demand for anti-aging skin care products has resulted in a proliferation of cosmeceuticals, including products that contain vitamin C. Many topicals containing vitamin C claim to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. However, these claims have not been systematically evaluated.

Methods: A systematic review of literature published between January 2015 and September 2022 was performed per PRISMA guidelines. Scopus, Web of Science, and PubMed were queried for records relevant using the following Medical Subject Heading (MeSH) terms: “Topical Vitamin C OR Ascorbic acid”, “Vitamin C efficacy”, “dermatology”, “cosmetology”, and “skin anti-aging”. Variables of interest included: study type, study location, study duration, sample size, patient description, type and ingredients of the topical formulation, outcome measurement, results, and adverse events.

Results: After deduplication, consideration of inclusion and exclusion criteria, and title/abstract screening, 5,428 initial records were reduced to 7 articles, including 4 meeting Level IB criteria, one meeting Level IIA criteria, and 2 meeting Level IIB criteria. Methods for assessing clinical improvements included global photodamage score, skin topography assessment, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) skin analysis, Dynamical Atlas, and participant self-assessment.  Conclusions: While 4 of the 7 studies met Level IB evidence, further high-quality, prospective, and comparative studies are indicated to better elucidate the role of topical vitamin C in wrinkle reduction. All the studies used vitamin C in combination with other ingredients or therapeutic mechanisms, thereby complicating any specific conclusions regarding the efficacy of vitamin C. Citation: Sanabria B, Berger LE, Mohd H, et al. Clinical efficacy of topical vitamin C on the appearance of wrinkles: a systematic literature review. J Drugs Dermatol. 2023;22(9):898-904. doi:10.36849/JDD.7332.