This study compared perceptional and physiological responses of finger flexor exercise performed with free flow and blood flow restriction (BFR). Thirteen male advanced climbers completed three sessions of finger flexor resistance exercise at (1) 40% of MVC (Low) and (2) 75% of MVC (High) and (3) BFR at 40% of MVC (Low + BFR) in a randomized and counterbalanced order. Rate of perceived exertion for effort (RPE) and discomfort (RPD), session pleasure/displeasure (sPDF), exercise enjoyment (EES), lactate concentration and oxygen saturation were recorded after the last set. Both low-intensity sessions induced higher RPD than High (p = 0.018-0.022, ES = 1.01-1.09) and High was perceived as more enjoyable than Low-BFR (p = 0.031, ES = 1.08). No differences were found for RPE or sPDF (p = 0.132-0.804). Lactate was elevated more after High than the Low-sessions (p < 0.001, ES = 1.88-2.08). Capillary oxygen saturation was lower after Low + BFR compared to the other sessions (p = 0.031, ES = 1.04-1.27). Finally, the exercise volume was greater in Low compared to High (p = 0.022, ES = 1.14) and Low + BFR (p = 0.020, ES = 0.77). In conclusion, among advanced male climbers, performing Low + BFR led to a similar exercise volume but was perceived as more discomforting and less enjoyable compared to High. The Low session yielded similar responses as the Low + BFR but required a much greater exercise volume.
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http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/s41598-023-30499-x | DOI Listing |
J Sports Sci
January 2025
Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes ( ≈ 0.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFArch Orthop Trauma Surg
January 2025
Abteilung für Plastische und Handchirurgie UniversitätsCentrum für Orthopädie, Unfall- & Plastische Chirurgie, Universitätsklinikum Carl Gustav Carus an der Technischen Universität Dresden, Dresden, Germany.
Background: Kirner deformity is a rare anomaly of the little finger in adolescents, characterized by a deformity of the distal phalanx and a radiologically L-shaped epiphysis, along with palmar and radial angulation of the distal phalanx. Due to the rarity of these pathological findings, there are no systematic literature reviews available. This work serves as an overview of the clinical presentation, frequency and age distributions, as well as possible conservative and surgical treatment options.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFFlexor tendon injuries are a commonly encountered hand problem caused by trauma. They can be associated with fractures or neurovascular injury or occur in isolation. Thorough physical examination is an integral aspect of management of these injuries to identify concomitant pathology and to facilitate preoperative planning and timing of surgery to improve outcome.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFTendinopathies around the hand and wrist are common. Most are diagnosed easily with a thorough history and clinical examination. Common conditions involving the hand and wrist include trigger finger, de Quervain tenosynovitis, intersection syndrome, third and fourth extensor compartment tenosynovitis, extensor carpi ulnaris tendinitis, and flexor carpi radialis tendinitis.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFCureus
December 2024
Department of Orthopaedics, Niigata Hand Surgery Foundation, Seiro-machi, JPN.
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