High global antioxidant protection and stimulation of the collagen synthesis of new anti-aging product containing an optimized active mix.

Objective: To assess the in vitro efficacy on antioxidant potential, protection against global oxidative stress, and effect on collagen neosynthesis of minimalist formula (Peptide-C ampoules product) containing 10% natural vitamin C, rice and lupin bio-peptides, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (active mix).

Methods: In-tube quantitative tests ("in-tube screening") assessed global antioxidant properties, anti-lipid peroxidation, anti-protein glycosylation, and metalloproteinase inhibition (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity) properties of the formula. Protection against oxidative stress was evaluated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures, and collagen neosynthesis was quantified on fibroblast monolayer cultures treated with supernatants from product-treated reconstructed human epidermis.

Results: Product (5% concentration) showed high antioxidant ability (blocking 99.0% oxidation), protection against oxidative stress damage (51.8% lipid peroxidation and 37.8% protein glycosylation decreases), and inhibition of hyaluronidase (21.9%), elastase (47.1%), and collagenase (61.8%). The protective effect was validated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures in the presence of active mix (0.025%). Oxidative stress (ROS) was reduced by 99.0%, while global oxidative stress (RMS) induced by pollution, UVA radiation, and a combination of both factors was reduced by 48.94%, 8.7%, and 96.28%, respectively. The product increased collagen neosynthesis (11.21%) by cellular dialogue in fibroblasts incubated with product/mix-treated-RHE supernatants.

Conclusion: The combination of ingredients in the product showed high global antioxidant capacity, as well as a protective effect against oxidative stress induced by UVA, pollution, or both combined factors and an ability to stimulate collagen neosynthesis in in vitro studies, which support the clinical efficacy of this product.