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Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum. | LitMetric

Ectoine disperses keratin and alters hydration kinetics in stratum corneum.

Biochem Biophys Rep

Department of Materials Science and Engineering, Stanford University, Stanford, CA, USA.

Published: December 2021

AI Article Synopsis

  • Moisturizing compounds like ectoine and HEG are used on the skin's outer layer (stratum corneum) to improve hydration and biomechanics, with ectoine showing notable effects on keratin dispersion.
  • Research used various assays to assess how these compounds influence hydration and mechanical stress in different conditions, revealing ectoine's ability to enhance keratin structure and reduce stress responses when drying.
  • Ectoine improved hydration in the stratum corneum, making it more resilient under dry environments, while HEG was effective in dispersing keratin but did not affect skin cohesion, indicating different mechanisms of action between the two compounds.

Article Abstract

Moisturizing compounds are commonly applied topically to human stratum corneum (SC). Many types of molecular species are employed, most commonly including humectants and occlusives. We find new evidence of keratin dispersion caused by the moisturizing compound ectoine (1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid), and provide the first characterization of its impacts on the hydration kinetics and biomechanics of SC. A second compound, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethylguanidine succinate (HEG) was investigated for comparison. A suite of biomechanical and biochemical assays including FTIR, drying stress, and cellular cohesion were used. Studies were conducted on normal, lipid-extracted, and lipid plus natural moisturizing factor extracted SC. Ectoine was found to improve the dispersity and hydration of keratin bundles in corneocytes. It also decreased rates of stress development in lipid extracted SC when exposed to a dry environment by ∼30% while improving stress reduction during rehydration by ∼20%. Peak stresses were increased in harsh drying environments of <5% RH, but SC swelling measurements suggest that water retention was improved in ambient conditions. Further, changes up to ∼4 J/m were seen in cohesion after ectoine treatments, suggesting corneodesmosome interactions. HEG was tested and found to disperse keratin without impacting corneodesmosomes. These results indicate that keratin dispersants produce beneficial effects on SC hydration kinetics, ultimately resulting in higher SC hydration under ambient conditions.

Download full-text PDF

Source
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8455723PMC
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.bbrep.2021.101134DOI Listing

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