Development of Hinoline® as a natural preservative for cosmetic product using bioinspiration and Greenpharma Database.

Aims: The cosmetic industry needs new preservatives that are effective, natural, safe, cost effective, sustainable and compliant with regulatory standards. This necessity has posed challenges requiring obligations, bioinformatics and bioinspiration as driving forces.

Methods And Results: Twenty natural extracts were selected from the Greenpharma Database with parameter filters corresponding to development constraints and antimicrobial properties. We confirmed using minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) assays that eight of the extracts have good bactericidal properties and that one has a high antifungal activity. The latter was purified hinokitiol, a bioproduct from Aomori Hiba wood. This substance provides high resistance against putrefaction; for instance, old Japanese temples were made of Aomori Hiba wood. The combination of hinokitiol with levulinic acid, another bioproduct, demonstrated complementary antimicrobial activities and synergistic effects in MIC studies and measurements according to Kull synergy index. Further, the mixture Hinoline® was tested at 2% in challenge tests and fulfilled criteria A of different standards. It also exerted complementary preservative effects with potassium sorbate and beneficial effects in unbalanced skin microbiota.

Conclusion: Hinoline, a new effective preservative from renewable bioresources, was developed.

Significance And Impact Of The Study: This study accelerates the development of a preservative solution for cosmetics selected from Greenpharma Database, through bioinspiration and the identification of cost-effective investments and resources.