Formulation of Sunscreens for Optimal Efficacy.

J Cosmet Sci

La Roche-Posay Dermatological Laboratories, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France (D.M., V.D., S.S.), Department of Dermatology, Université Côte d'Azur, CHU Nice, 06000 Nice, France and Université Côte d'Azur, INSERM, U1065, C3M, 06000 Nice, France (T.P.), L'Oreal Research and Innovation, 94550 Chevilly Larue, France (M.J., S.D.).

Published: November 2020

Skin exposure to solar radiation can cause many adverse effects. In addition to the sun protection factor (SPF), a parameter associated with Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection, significant evidence emphasized the crucial importance of a well-balanced protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and for some indications, against high-energy visible light. Synergy between UV filters and filter photostability together with film-forming ingredients such as polymers that ensure the homogeneous distribution of UV filters on the skin are key factors to avoid UVA- and UVB-provoked detrimental effects of solar radiation. Clinical studies mimicking real conditions of use have been performed. The results show that a well-balanced sunscreen with at least an SPF-to-UVA protection factor ratio < 3 provides the most effective protection against DNA damage, skin photoimmunosuppression, photodermatoses, and pigmentation disorders. In addition, cosmetically pleasant sunscreens allow a sufficient amount to be applied and re-applied by consumers, ensuring continuous and even coverage of the exposed skin.

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