Quality attributes of partially hydrolyzed collagen in a liquid formulation used for skin care.

Background: The deterioration of the skin accentuates over time, affecting its aesthetic appearance. This is characterized by the weakening of the mechanisms involved in the regeneration and repair of the dermal matrix. Consequently, the skin losses elasticity and smoothness resulting in the formation of wrinkles. The alternatives for facial rejuvenation include surgery, injection of botulinum toxin, and the application of masks. Topic products are less invasive, can be self-applied, and have an increased benefit/risk relationship.

Aim: We developed a liquid formulation containing collagen hydrolyzed and evaluated the product by cutting-edge technology in order to define proper its quality attributes.

Methods: We employed nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), size-exclusion chromatography (SEC), and mass spectrometry (MS). Additionally, we analyzed its cosmetical effect in five volunteers and we demonstrate the product safety.

Results: Our results demonstrate the following: (a) a stable secondary structure identity associated to the known triple helix arrangement in liquid and solid states; (b) a typical conformational flexibility depending on its hydration state; (c) thermal stability confirmed by liquid- and solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance schemes; and (d) a molecular mass distribution of peptides between 0.5 and 19.5 kDa. The product faded wrinkles in the forehead, an effect that remained after removing the mask. The formula was non-irritating and hypoallergenic.

Conclusion: We characterized, using state-of-the-art methodologies, the quality attributes that are critical for the safety and beneficial effect of a new collagen-containing formula.