We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MP) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. An modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberry-loaded microparticles (MP) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MP) were prepared by spray-drying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MP and MP, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 μg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.
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| http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6664116 | PMC |
| http://dx.doi.org/10.15171/apb.2019.027 | DOI Listing |
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