UV fluorescence excitation spectroscopy as a noninvasive predictor of epidermal proliferation and clinical performance of cosmetic formulations.

Background: The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin and is composed of cells primarily containing keratin. It consists of about ten layers of living cells (keratinocytes) and ten layers of dead cells (corneocytes). Thinning of the epidermis and decreased proliferation of its cells are associated with aging related changes in skin, including wrinkling and laxity. Fluorescence excitation spectroscopy is a noninvasive method of monitoring characteristic excitation-emission peaks in skin that have been related to the epidermal and dermal composition. The magnitude of the peak that occurs at 295nm excitation (F295) has been linked to changes in epidermal thickness, proliferation, and skin aging.

Aim: The goal of this study is to correlate changes in the F295 signal with proliferation of cells and thickening of the epidermis induced by cosmetic formulations. We hypothesize that two commonly used cosmetic ingredients, retinol and glycolic acid, will increase these markers that have been implicated in skin anti-aging.

Methods: In a placebo-controlled study subjects' forearms were treated with formulations containing retinol or glycolic acid under occlusive patch for a period of 21 days. Skin fluorescence was measured at baseline and after treatment, and biopsies were taken following treatment for histological analysis of epidermal thickness and cell proliferation.

Results: After 21 days of treatment retinol and glycolic acid formulas significantly increased F295 (by 265.1±33.5% and 162.2±18.7% respectively), whereas the placebo control formula did not induce a change from baseline. Furthermore, retinol and glycolic acid treatments significantly increased epidermal thickness (by 63.1% and 7.8% respectively) and keratinocyte proliferation (by 236.9% and 62.8% respectively) versus placebo control.

Conclusion: Increases in F295 were found to correlate with epidermal renewal, but more so with increased cell proliferation than epidermal thickness. We conclude that the F295 signal is a fast and reliable early indicator of epidermal remodeling in skin that can be used to distinguish between formulations with different cosmetic ingredients.