The Basics of Cheesemaking.

All cheeses have a common set of principles that involve a complex web of chemical, biochemical, and microbiological changes. These changes first transform milk into fresh or unripened cheese. Although some cheeses are consumed immediately after manufacture, most are subsequently aged or ripened for weeks to years depending on the variety. During aging or ripening, a cheese's sensory characteristics undergo multifaceted and often dramatic changes. The steps performed during the earliest days of the cheesemaking process are especially critical because they establish the chemical characteristics of the cheese at the start of ripening, and these characteristics in turn affect the ripening process. For most cheeses, the key process on the first day of cheesemaking is the fermentation of lactose to lactic acid by bacteria. The rate at which lactic acid is produced profoundly affects the initial chemical characteristics of the cheese, which selectively influence the complex microbial populations that find their way from the milk and surrounding environment into the cheese. This article discusses the basics of cheesemaking by integrating the practical steps that all cheesemakers use with the scientific principles on which those practices are based. The aim is to paint a conceptual picture in which the microbiology of cheese "fits together" with the basic practices of cheesemaking and the scientific principles that underlie them.