Influence of the polar phase in the formulation of cosmetics.

Synopsis Frequently, the incoporation of the polar phase, as a second step in the formulation of a cosmetic, is considered as a simple dilution process. This work shows the influence of the polar phase on the final formulation, according to its constitution as well as the method of incorporation. Modelling the system through a regular tetrahedron suggests alternative ways to the usual method of incorporation (direct titration with a polar phase with a given composition), based on selective incorporation of the polar ingredients (double titration procedures). Depending on the constitution of the polar phase, it is possible to obtain different kinds of formulations (gel, liquids, ...), and, depending on the different possibilities of incorporation of the polar ingredients, identical compositions can be formulated in terms of percentage of their components, but showing different rheological characteristics, allowing an adaptation to the required specific needs of formulation.