Emollient, humectant, and fluorescent alpha,beta-unsaturated thiol esters for long-acting skin applications.

We describe compounds in which an emollient or a humectant bears an alpha,beta-unsaturated thiol ester capable of reacting with nucleophilic amino acids in stratum corneum proteins. These compounds should serve as long-lasting moisturizers for skin. The emollient derivatized was octadecyl propanoate, and the humectant was poly(ethylene glycol). These hydrophobic and hydrophilic compounds, as well as a fluorescent, dansyl-containing thiol ester, were found to react within minutes with the thiol N-acetylcysteamine upon addition of a catalytic amount of an organic base in chloroform. The structures of the products resulting from conjugate addition to the unsaturated thiol esters were determined by NMR spectroscopy. In the case of the alpha,beta,gamma,delta-unsaturated (sorboyl) thiol ester, both the 1,4-addition product and the beta,gamma-unsaturated-1,6-addition product formed, followed by diadduct. An in vivo test of the fluorescent alpha,beta-unsaturated thiol ester showed that this compound persisted on skin for 3 weeks vs. 6 days for the non-bonding control compound.