Most alpha-hydroxyacids and polyhydroxy acids are physiologic, natural, and nontoxic substances. All members of the group promote normal keratinization and desquamation. Those with multiple hydroxyl groups are moisturizing antioxidants, and are especially gentle for sensitive skin. Alpha-hydroxyacids and polyhydroxy acids can increase biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen fibers, and cause substantial skin plumping and increased dermal thickness. Formulation of alpha-hydroxyacids and polyhydroxy acids in combination with pharmaceutical agents can enhance efficacy and diminish or eliminate side effects and drug resistance. N-acetylamino sugars and N-acetylamino acids are two other categories of physiologic substances that can: 1) increase skin thickness; 2) improve wrinkles and photoaged skin; and 3) eradicate itch in senile and eczematous dermatitis.
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| http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-9740.2002.01646a.x | DOI Listing |
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Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids.
Clin Dermatol
December 2009
NeoStrata Company, Inc, Princeton, NJ 08540, USA.
The hydroxyacids are represented by the alpha-hydroxyacids, beta-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids. Together, these ingredients form a class of compounds with unparalleled benefits to the skin and unprecedented usage in the cosmeceutical market in cosmetic and therapeutic formulations alike. The most commonly used hydroxyacid is glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxyacid that has been used extensively in cosmetic antiaging formulations, moisturizers, and peels, and in treatment products to improve hyperpigmentation and acne.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFThe carboxylic acids include alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs), polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), aldobionic acids (ABAs), retinoic acid, vitamin C and azelaic acid. They all have therapeutic actions. AHAs, PHAs and ABAs are organic hydroxyacids, a group of natural and physiological substances which can modulate skin keratinization and increase biosynthesis of dermal components.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFA polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen.
Cutis
February 2004
NeoStrata Company, Inc, Princeton, New Jersey, USA.
Article Synopsis
- Numerous clinical studies indicate that polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) offer anti-aging benefits in skincare, though a direct comparison with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) has not been thoroughly examined until now.
- The 12-week study compared products containing gluconolactone (PHAs) and glycolic acid (AHAs), measuring skin aging and irritation through various methods, with both showing significant anti-aging effects.
- While AHAs demonstrated some superior results in sallowness and pinch recoil at week 12, PHAs were better tolerated overall, causing less irritation and negative sensations for users.
The beneficial effects of alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) on skin were discovered by Drs. Van Scott and Yu in the early 1970s, including exfoliation, skin smoothing, and antiaging effects. A new generation of AHAs, called polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), was discovered that provide similar effects as AHAs but do not cause the sensory irritation responses that can limit the use of classical AHAs.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFMost alpha-hydroxyacids and polyhydroxy acids are physiologic, natural, and nontoxic substances. All members of the group promote normal keratinization and desquamation. Those with multiple hydroxyl groups are moisturizing antioxidants, and are especially gentle for sensitive skin.
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