In vivo human skin permeability enhancement by oleic acid: a laser Doppler velocimetry study.

Topical application of a skin permeation enhancer such as oleic acid (OA) can result in: (i) higher skin permeability for many exogenous substances (ii) an irritation reaction. Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) is one of few techniques which can assess both effects using appropriate protocols. Direct LDV measurement, measuring cutaneous blood flow, has been preferred as a tool to evaluate skin irritation. By comparing the LDV value of an irritant-treated site with an untreated site, an irritation index for the irritant can be obtained. Occlusive application of 0.16 M OA in propylene glycol (PG) for either 3 or 24 h produced irritation in form of redness and slight swelling. Using LDV, we obtained an irritation index of 2 and 4, respectively. The vehicle, PG alone, produced an index of around 1, which corresponded well to the slight to almost no irritation observed visually. The duration of the high irritation index assessed by LDV after OA-PG application is comparable to the duration of the increase in transepidermal water loss following the same application. This indicates a correlation between skin irritation and barrier perturbation caused by OA. LDV can also be used to elucidate the effect of enhancers on skin using hexyl nicotinate (HN) as a model drug, since its vasodilative effect can be clearly assessed by LDV. Pre-treatment of PG for 3 h significantly reduced the t0 and tmax of HN. No further reduction could be observed when OA was added into PG, suggesting that OA-PG is not more effective than PG alone in enhancing the permeation of HN.