Reduction-induced surface modification of human hair.

A microfluorometric method has been developed to characterize lipid removal or "delipidation" of the human hair cuticula during light exposure and chemical grooming processes such as oxidation (bleaching) and reduction. In the case of photochemical and chemical oxidation, lipid removal ("delipidation" of the F-layer or lipid-layer) from the outer beta-layer of the exposed scale faces and generation of cysteic acid groups occurs. This "delipidation," which ultimately results in "acidification" of the scale faces, leading to a change in surface chemistry from hydrophobic to hydrophilic, can be detected and quantified by microfluorometry by tagging, e.

Diffraction of light by the cuticle structure of hair.

Under a microscope, hair looks like a surface relief grating with an irregular sawtooth profile. Using scalar diffraction theory, we model what has been, until now, assumed to be a specular peak in the light scattering data. Diffraction efficiencies are calculated as a function of cuticle thickness.

Tensile properties of twisted hair fibers.

Hair is routinely twisted during grooming processes, which can cause tangles and lead to breakage of hair fibers. To evaluate the damage caused by twisting hair, the tensile stress-strain properties of single twisted hair fibers were measured by two different experimental procedures: (A) twist at constant length, followed by extension to break (without untwisting); and (B) twist and untwist at constant length, followed by extension to break. In procedure (A), the strength, extension, and initial modulus decreased with increase in twist factor, whereas in procedure (B), the strength and extension did not significantly change from control values, although the initial modulus decreased with increase in twist factor.