Effects of under-eye skin and crow's feet on perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups.

Objective: Age-related skin changes in the periorbital region caused by intrinsic (e.g. atrophy of collagen and fat) and extrinsic (e.

The importance of stratum corneum ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides in human skin barrier health: their biochemistry, processing enzymes and metabolites involved in corneocyte lipid envelope maturation.

Over the past 50 years there have been great strides made in the discovery of the composition and relevance of the total stratum corneum (SC) ceramide matrix. However, the focus of this review is on the free intercellular class of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides, corneocyte-bound ceramides and associated lipids known as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) together with their processing enzymes involved in aiding ceramide attachment the corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Two structural models and partially shared biosynthetic pathways have been proposed for the attachment of CPE-bound O-ceramides (ω-hydroxyceramides attached to glutamate residues of proteins in the (CPE) using the 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX)/epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3)/epoxide hydrolase-3 (EPHX3)/unknown esterase/ transglutaminase-1 (TG1) attachment pathway) and CPE-bound EO-ceramides (epoxy-enone ceramides attached to cysteine residues of proteins in the CPE using the 12R-LOX/eLOX3/short chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7)/non-enzymatic attachment pathway), i.

Age-dependent changes in skin features and perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups.

Objective: Research documents effects of skin features on assessments of age, health and attractiveness of female faces. Ethnic variation also has been reported for the impact of age-related changes in skin features on face assessments. Here, we investigate women's self-ratings across age cohorts and ethnic groups and discrepancies with (non-expert) assessor ratings of facial appearance together with age-dependent changes in skin features.

Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups.

Objective: Research indicates the impact of skin colour, tone evenness and surface topography on ratings of age, health and attractiveness in women. In addition to subjective assessments, these effects have been quantified with objective measures derived from skin image analysis. Signs of skin ageing may manifest differently across ethnic groups.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare.

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids.

A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women.

Objectives: The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.

Methods: We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours.

Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups.

Introduction: We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa.

Methods: Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms.

Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study.

Objective: Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors.

Methods: Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20-34, 35-49, 50-66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity).

Cross-cultural perception of female facial appearance: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study.

Humans extract and use information from the face in assessments of physical appearance. Previous research indicates high agreement about facial attractiveness within and between cultures. However, the use of a narrow age range for facial stimuli, limitations due to unidirectional cross-cultural comparisons, and technical challenges have prevented definitive conclusions about the universality of face perception.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations.

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.

An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand.

Objective: There are methods to evaluate skin colour on defined areas over the face but no approach automatically and accurately evaluates skin colour variations on large facial areas, comparing subjects, treatments and/or time points. We propose such an image-based approach to visualize quickly the outcome of clinical studies on colour variations.

Methods: Among 54 Asian women, one group applied a vehicle twice daily, during 28 days, and the other group an anti-ageing emulsion, taking facial images at baseline and after treatment.

Revealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone.

The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for both the dermatological and cosmetic fields. Understanding the skin microbiota, that is the collection of vital microorganisms living on our skin, and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential step to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin and its appearance. Imbalances in the skin microbiota composition (dysbiosis) are associated with several skin conditions, either pathological such as eczema, acne, allergies or dandruff or non-pathological such as sensitive skin, irritated skin or dry skin.

Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis.

Objective: Plasmin, a relatively unspecific trypsin-like serine protease, is involved in many physiological and pathological conditions, particularly in dermatoses with barrier impairment. It is secreted as the inactive zymogen plasminogen and is activated to plasmin by plasminogen activators, such as urokinase. There still exists a paucity of data on the precise localization of epidermal plasmin(ogen) within the epidermis and the stratum corneum.

The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes.

Background: Terminally differentiated keratinocytes acquire corneocyte protein envelopes (CPE) complexed with corneocyte lipid envelopes (CLE). These two structural components of the corneocyte envelopes (CEs) undergo maturation by gaining in hydrophobicity, rigidity and surface area. Linoleoyl acylceramides are processed by 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX) and other enzymes before transglutaminase (TG) attaches ω-hydroxyceramides to involucrin in the CPE.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types.

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this.

12R-lipoxygenase activity is reduced in photodamaged facial stratum corneum. A novel activity assay indicates a key function in corneocyte maturation.

Background: During the late stage of keratinocyte differentiation, corneocytes gain a strong protein-lipid structure: the corneocyte envelopes (CE), composed of the inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE) and the outer corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). The hydrophobicity of CEs depends on the covalent attachment of linoleoyl-acyl-ceramides by transglutaminases (TG). These ceramides are processed by a range of other enzymes, including 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), before the covalent attachment of the free ω-hydroxyceramides to the CPE surface to form the CLE.

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin.

Objective: With increasing age, skin is subject to alterations in its organization, which impact on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study, we utilize proteomics to characterize and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system.

Background: Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Early-life regional and temporal variation in filaggrin-derived natural moisturizing factor, filaggrin-processing enzyme activity, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activity: implications for atopic dermatitis.

Background: Filaggrin is central to the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD). The cheeks are a common initiation site of infantile AD. Regional and temporal expression of levels of filaggrin degradation products [natural moisturizing factors (NMFs)], activities of filaggrin-processing enzymes [bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1)] and plasmin, and corneocyte envelope (CE) maturity in early life are largely unknown.

A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays.

Background: The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC.

Objectives: The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area.

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics.

Background: The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.

Objective: To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.

Methods: Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site.

Effect of allergens and irritants on levels of natural moisturizing factor and corneocyte morphology.

Background: The irritant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is known to cause a decrease in the stratum corneum level of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which in itself is associated with changes in corneocyte surface topography.

Objective: To explore this phenomenon in allergic contact dermatitis.

Methods: Patch testing was performed on patients with previously positive patch test reactions to potassium dichromate (Cr), nickel sulfate (Ni), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/methylisothiazolinone (MI), or p-phenylenediamine.

Novel approaches to characterize age-related remodelling of the dermal-epidermal junction in 2D, 3D and in vivo.

Background/purpose: The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) forms epidermal protrusions down into the dermis (rete ridges) and dermal projections up into the epidermis (dermal papillae). Usually visualized in two-dimensions (2D), our knowledge of how the DEJ changes with ageing is limited. We aimed to characterize how this structure exists in 3D and changes with age.