Sun-protection factor of zinc-oxide sunscreens: SPF too low compared to SPF-a brief review.

Sunscreens are mainly characterized by their sun-protection factor (SPF), which is measured according to the in vivo gold standard ISO 24444. Although the SPF concept is simple, SPF values are difficult to measure, due to the rather high variability caused by the complex interaction of light and skin. For half a century, there have been attempts to correlate the costly and ethically controversial in vivo procedure with a non-invasive (in vitro) method.

[Characterization of sun protection performance: Quo vadis?].

The task of the first sunscreens was to prevent the development of sunburn and, following the spirit of the 1950/1960s, to not impair the tanning of the skin. The need to quantify the protective performance soon arose. Originally with the help of natural-nowadays artificial-sunlight, a method was developed to determine a sun protection factor (SPF).

[Nano is big! : Facts and myths about nanoparticulate UV filters].

Sunscreen products containing inorganic micronized titanium dioxide (TiO) and zinc oxide (ZnO) have been available since the 1950s. Their cosmetic acceptance remained limited as they persist as a white paste on the skin. By reducing the size of the particles into the nano-range below 100 nm, their optical property of reflecting visible light is reduced.

Past, Present, and Future of Sun Protection Metrics.

Since the beginning of the development of sunscreen products, efforts have been made to measure and quantify the protection performance of such products. Early on an in vivo method was established that allowed statements on the sun protection performance in humans. Later, by establishing defined basic and experimental conditions, the method became internationally standardized delivering the well-known sun protection factor (SPF).

Size Matters! Issues and Challenges with Nanoparticulate UV Filters.

Preparations containing pigments have been used since ancient times to protect against negative effects of solar radiation. Since the 1950s, sunscreen products containing micronized TiO2 and ZnO have been marketed. These products were soon regarded as cosmetically unattrac-tive due to their property of remaining as a white paste on the skin, a result of particle sizes.

Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products.

Developing efficient sunscreen products with an acceptable sensory feel after application on skin, that meet current regulatory market and consumer requirements, is a major challenge, exacerbated by new restrictions limiting the use of certain ingredients previously considered crucial. This paper outlines a development strategy for -formulating sunscreens along a generic professional development pathway. Each galenic system will be different and must be customized.

Spectral Homeostasis - The Fundamental Requirement for an Ideal Sunscreen.

Sunscreen application to UV-exposed skin is promoted to prevent skin cancer and sun damage, within a comprehensive photoprotection strategy that also includes sun avoidance and wearing UV protective clothing. The benefits of sunscreen are verified in preventing sunburn but appear to be largely presumptive in skin cancer prevention. Contemporary science establishes UVA as a primary driver of melanoma and photoaging.

Challenges in Sun Protection.

Since time immemorial, people protected themselves from solar radiation. Limiting time in the sun by seeking shade or wearing clothing was a matter of course. In the early 20th century, tanned skin - a result of exposure to sunlight - was associated with good health.

Labelled sunscreen SPFs may overestimate protection in natural sunlight.

Limited evidence exists to indicate that sunscreen protection factors determined in the laboratory are higher than those in natural sunlight. In this article we propose an explanation for this difference and estimate the expected SPFs of sunscreen products in natural sunlight and those expected from laboratory testing. Our results indicate that the labelled SPF, determined by in vivo assay using a UV solar simulator, overestimates the SPF that would be expected in natural sunlight to the extent that for products labelled SPF50+, it may not be possible to achieve a protection against sunlight of more than 25-fold.

Comparison of ultraviolet A light protection standards in the United States and European Union through in vitro measurements of commercially available sunscreens.

Background: The importance of adequate ultraviolet A light (UVA) protection has become apparent in recent years. The United States and Europe have different standards for assessing UVA protection in sunscreen products.

Objective: We sought to measure the in vitro critical wavelength (CW) and UVA protection factor (PF) of commercially available US sunscreen products and see if they meet standards set by the United States and the European Union.

Calculation of the sun protection factor of sunscreens with different vehicles using measured film thickness distribution - Comparison with the SPF in vitro.

The sun protection factor (SPF) depends on UV filter composition, and amount and type of vehicle of the applied sunscreen. In an earlier work, we showed that the vehicle affected the average thickness of sunscreen film that is formed upon application to a skin substrate and that film thickness correlated significantly with SPF in vitro. In the present study, we quantitatively assess the role for sunscreen efficacy of the complete film thickness frequency distribution of sunscreen measured with an oil-in-water cream, an oil-in-water spray, a gel, a water-in-oil, and an alcoholic spray formulation.

Suntanning with sunscreens: a comparison with sunbed tanning.

Background/purpose: Acquiring a tanned skin, either by sunbathing, sunbed use, or a combination of both, is a desirable objective for many people. The objective here was to compare the ultraviolet (UV) exposure resulting from a 2-week vacation spent sunbathing with sunscreen-protected skin, with that from a typical course of 10 sessions on a sunbed.

Methods: A numerical analysis combining data on sunlight and sunbed UV levels, time spent tanning and spectral absorption properties of different types of sunscreen.

Global state of sunscreens.

The use of sunscreen is embedded in a hierarchy of sun protection strategies consisting primarily of sun avoidance by seeking shade and covering up with clothing. Sunscreens are, however, important means of protection; thus, understanding how they work and knowing their limitations are crucial. This review explains the role of ultraviolet (UV) filters, emollients, emulsifier systems and other components in a sunscreen, as well as trends in formulations in Europe, North America, Latin America, and Asia Pacific.

Photoprotection: part II. Sunscreen: development, efficacy, and controversies.

In addition to the naturally occurring, physical, and systemic photoprotective agents reviewed in part I, topical ultraviolet radiation filters are an important cornerstone of photoprotection. Sunscreen development, efficacy, testing, and controversies are reviewed in part II of this continuing medical education article.

Photoprotection: part I. Photoprotection by naturally occurring, physical, and systemic agents.

The acute and chronic consequences of ultraviolet radiation on human skin are reviewed. An awareness of variations in naturally occurring photoprotective agents and the use of glass, sunglasses, and fabric can lead to effective protection from the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation. New systemic agents, including Polypodium leucotomos, afamelanotide, and antioxidants have potential as photoprotective agents.

Ex vivo evaluation of radical sun protection factor in popular sunscreens with antioxidants.

Background: UVA induces tissue damage via the production of radical oxygen species. Adding antioxidants to UV filters in sunscreens is a novel photoprotective strategy. The topical application of antioxidants in sunscreen can potentially neutralize the UVA-induced free radicals.

A sunscreen's labeled sun protection factor may overestimate protection at temperate latitudes: a human in vivo study.

We lack comparative data on sunscreens with comparable sun protection factors (SPFs), but with different levels of UVA protection, especially against cumulative erythema from repeated suberythemal exposure. Thus, we compared the protection from cumulative sunburn with two sunscreens labeled SPF 6, but with different UVR-absorbing properties, one that absorbs the UVB waveband and the other that absorbs UVB+UVA wavebands. We simulated sunlight typical of temperate latitudes to expose skin daily to suberythemal doses for 13 consecutive days.

In vitro measurements of sunscreen protection.

The ultimate goal of in vitro measurements of sunscreen protection is replacement of invasive tests on human volunteer subjects. This requires validation of methods against a measurable in vivo benchmark, such as SPF. SPF is measured in the laboratory using artificial light sources that do not completely simulate sunlight.

The long way towards the ideal sunscreen--where we stand and what still needs to be done.

The magnitude and quality of UV protection provided by topical sun products have improved considerably over the past three decades. As our knowledge and understanding of sun protection requirements increases, product and testing technologies advance and new sunscreen molecules and technologies become available. The biannual London Sun Protection Conference has monitored this development over the last two decades.

Photoprotection: a review of the current and future technologies.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is associated with a variety of harmful effects ranging from photoaging to skin cancer. UVB (290 to 320 nm) directly damages the cellular DNA leading to the formation of the 6-4 cyclobutane pyrimidine dimmers, and UVA (320 to 400 nm) indirectly damages the DNA via the production of oxygen radical species. In this review, we focused on the technological and scientific aspects of photoprotection using sunglasses and clothing while attempting to dispel some of the misconceptions.