2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity.

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance.

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation.

Introduction: Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo.

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects: A randomized controlled clinical study.

Background: Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2-MNG to melanin precursors.

Objective: To evaluate 2-MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo.

In vivo melanin 3D quantification and z-epidermal distribution by multiphoton FLIM, phasor and Pseudo-FLIM analyses.

Characterizing melanins in situ and determining their 3D z-epidermal distribution is paramount for understanding physiological/pathological processes of melanin neosynthesis, transfer, degradation or modulation with external UV exposure or cosmetic/pharmaceutical products. Multiphoton fluorescence intensity- and lifetime-based approaches have been shown to afford melanin detection, but how can one quantify melanin in vivo in 3D from multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) data, especially since FLIM imaging requires long image acquisition times not compatible with 3D imaging in a clinical setup? We propose an approach combining (i) multiphoton FLIM, (ii) fast image acquisition times, and (iii) a melanin detection method called Pseudo-FLIM, based on slope analysis of autofluorescence intensity decays from temporally binned data. We compare Pseudo-FLIM to FLIM bi-exponential and phasor analyses of synthetic melanin, melanocytes/keratinocytes coculture and in vivo human skin.

Vitamin C Prevents Ultraviolet-induced Pigmentation in Healthy Volunteers: Bayesian Meta-analysis Results from 31 Randomized Controlled versus Vehicle Clinical Studies.

Repeated nonextreme sun exposures induce skin pigmentation by increasing melanin production and by oxidizing preexisting melanin and melanin precursors. This leads to skin disorders and skin color heterogeneity such as hyperpigmented spots. We assessed 31 randomized, controlled clinical trials to determine the potential of vitamin C to limit ultraviolet (UV) daylight-induced pigmentation, considering dose response and different skin type populations (Caucasian and Chinese).

Melanosome Distribution in Keratinocytes in Different Skin Types: Melanosome Clusters Are Not Degradative Organelles.

The melanosome pattern was characterized systematically in keratinocytes in situ in highly, moderately, and lightly pigmented human skin, classified according to the individual typological angle, a colorimetric measure of skin color phenotype. Electron microscopy of skin samples showed qualitatively and quantitatively that in highly pigmented skin, although melanosomes are mostly isolated and distributed throughout the entire epidermis, clusters are also observed in the basal layer. In moderately and lightly pigmented skin, melanosomes are concentrated in the first layer of the epidermis, isolated-but for most of them, grouped as clusters of melanocores delimited by a single membrane.

Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo.

Objective: To examine the ability of an extract from traditional Chinese medicine, Polygonum multiflorum Radix, to protect melanocyte viability from oxidative stress, a key mechanism in the initiation and progression of hair greying.

Methods: To assess the antioxidant capacity of Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract, primary human foreskin melanocytes were treated with a commercially available Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract added to culture medium and exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H O ), using intracellular reactive oxygen species concentrations and glutathione/protein ratios as endpoints. To improve solubility for cosmetic uses, a new Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract was derived.

The skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin: in vitro evaluation using reconstructed pigmented human epidermis.

Objective: The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and its main ingredient paeoniflorin has been scarcely investigated by topical application. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin as skin whitening agent in cosmetic application.

Analysis of gene expression dynamics revealed delayed and abnormal epidermal repair process in aged compared to young skin.

With aging, epidermal homeostasis and barrier function are disrupted. In a previous study, we analyzed the transcriptomic response of young skin epidermis after stratum corneum removal, and obtained a global kinetic view of the molecular processes involved in barrier function recovery. In the present study, the same analysis was performed in aged skin in order to better understand the defects which occur with aging.

Human skin model containing melanocytes: essential role of keratinocyte growth factor for constitutive pigmentation-functional response to α-melanocyte stimulating hormone and forskolin.

To study human skin pigmentation in a physiological in vitro model, we developed a pigmented reconstructed skin reproducing the three-dimensional architecture of the melanocyte environment and the interactions of melanocyte with its cellular partners, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts. Co-seeding melanocytes and keratinocytes onto a fibroblast-populated collagen matrix led to a correct integration of melanocytes within the epidermal basal layer, but melanocytes remained amelanotic even after supplementation with promelanogenic factors. Interestingly, normalization of keratinocyte differentiation using keratinocyte growth factor instead of epidermal growth factor finally allowed an active pigmentary system to develop, as shown by the expression of key melanogenic markers, the production, and transfer of melanosome-containing melanin into keratinocytes.

Large scale study of epidermal recovery after stratum corneum removal: dynamics of genomic response.

The stratum corneum (SC) is a superficial skin compartment that protects the body from the outside environment. Any disturbance of this function induces cascading steps of molecular and cellular repair in the whole epidermis. The aim of this study was to investigate epidermal gene expression following SC removal by tape stripping.

Stable overexpression of Smad7 in human melanoma cells inhibits their tumorigenicity in vitro and in vivo.

We previously identified constitutive Smad signaling in human melanoma cells despite resistance to transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-beta) control of cell proliferation. This led us to investigate the effect of inhibitory Smad7 overexpression on melanoma cell behavior. Using the highly metastatic cell line, 1205-Lu, we thus generated melanoma cell clones constitutively expressing Smad7, and their mock-transfected counterparts.

Genetic transformation of Brevibacterium linens strains producing high amounts of diverse sulphur compounds.

By its numerous properties and importance in cheese technology (production of colour, flavour, bacteriocins and resistance to salt) Brevibacterium linens is a major cheese ripening bacteria. However, the genetic approach of such biological functions has been hindered, up to now, by the lack of tools necessary to realise genetic modifications in this species. Our objective was to demonstrate that it is possible to genetically modify several strains exhibiting interesting technological properties, especially the production of sulphur compounds.