Spatial distribution of active compounds in stratum corneum-partitioning between corneocytes and lipid matrix.

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway.

In vitro to in vivo extrapolation to derive a metabolism factor for estimating the aggregate exposure to salicylic acid after dermal exposure of its esters.

As part of the safety assessment of salicylate esters in cosmetics, we developed a metabolism factor based on in vitro to in vivo extrapolation (IVIVE) to provide a better estimation of the aggregate internal exposure to the common metabolite, salicylic acid. Optimal incubation conditions using human liver S9 were identified before measuring salicylic acid formation from 31 substances. Four control substances, not defined as salicylic esters but which could be mistaken as such due to their nomenclature, did not form salicylic acid.

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity.

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance.

Use of in vitro ADME methods to identify suitable analogs of homosalate and octisalate for use in a read-across safety assessment.

Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties.

Reverse Iontophoresis: Noninvasive Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability.

Assessing drug disposition in the skin after the application of a topical formulation is difficult. It is hypothesized that reverse iontophoresis (RI), which can extract charged/polar molecules for monitoring purposes, may provide a noninvasive approach for the assessment of local drug bioavailability. The passive and RI extraction of salicylic acid (SA) and nicotine (NIC) from porcine skin was assessed after a simple solution of the former and a transdermal patch of the latter had been applied for 24 and 8 h, respectively.

Off to a good start? Review of the predictivity of reactivity methods modelling the molecular initiating event of skin sensitization.

The assessment of skin sensitizing properties of chemicals has moved away from animal methods to new approach methodologies (NAM), guided by qualitative mechanistic understanding operationalized in an adverse outcome pathway (AOP). As with any AOP, the molecular initiating event (MIE) of covalent binding of a chemical to skin proteins is particularly important. This MIE has been modelled by several test methods by measuring the reaction of a test chemical with model peptides in chemico.

Extraction of phytochemicals from the pomegranate ( L., ) by reverse iontophoresis.

Plant metabolic profiling can provide a wealth of information regarding the biochemical status of the organism, but sample acquisition typically requires an invasive and/or destructive extraction process. Reverse iontophoresis (RI) imposes a small electric field across a biological membrane to substantially enhance the transport of charged and polar compounds and has been employed, in particular, to extract biomarkers of interest across human skin. The objective of this work was to examine the capability of RI to sample phytochemicals in a minimally invasive fashion (, from the intact fruit).

Non-destructive, reverse iontophoretic extraction of phytochemicals from Mangifera indica, Centella asiatica, Punica granatum, and Citrus sinensis.

Unlabelled: For the commercial-scale isolation of phytochemicals, a suitable plant biomass source (including species, origin, growing season, etc.) must be identified, and frequent analytical verification is required to ensure that the phytochemicals are present at predefined minimum threshold concentrations. While the latter are typically assessed in the laboratory, a more efficient and less resource-intensive approach would involve non-destructive and environmentally friendly measurements in situ.

An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect.

Objective: Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly.

Solubility of Foreign Molecules in Stratum Corneum Brick and Mortar Structure.

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC). One key aspect in predicting dermal drug delivery and in safety assessment of skin exposure to chemicals is the need to determine the amount of chemical that is taken up into the SC. We here present a strategy that allows for direct measures of the amount of various solid chemicals that can be dissolved in the SC in any environmental relative humidity (RH).

Hyaluronic acid skin penetration evaluated by tape stripping using ELISA kit assay.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is an endogenous skin matrix component with moisturizing and anti-inflammatory and healing properties. Cosmetic formulations containing HA aim to enhance skin structure, hydrate skin and reduce wrinkles. Therefore, the skin diffusion of HA into stratum corneum after application of a formulation containing two different size of HA, High Molecular weight (HMW-HA) and Low Molecular Weight (LMW-HA)) was evaluated.

Membrane permeability based on mesh analysis.

The main function of a membrane is to control the exchange of matter between the surrounding regions. As such, accurate modeling of membranes is important to properly describe their properties. In many cases in both biological systems and technical applications, the membranes are composite structures where transport properties may vary between the different sub-regions of the membrane.

3D Molecular Imaging of Stratum Corneum by Mass Spectrometry Suggests Distinct Distribution of Cholesteryl Esters Compared to Other Skin Lipids.

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g.

Practical application of the interim internal threshold of toxicological concern (iTTC): a case study based on clinical data.

We present a case study that provides a practical step-by-step example of how the internal Threshold of Toxicological Concern (iTTC) can be used as a tool to refine a TTC-based assessment for dermal exposures to consumer products. The case study uses a theoretical scenario where there are no systemic toxicity data for the case study chemicals (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, octinoxate, and ecamsule). Human dermal pharmacokinetic data following single and repeat dermal exposure to products containing the case study chemicals were obtained from data published by the US FDA.

In-Vivo Tape Stripping Study with Caffeine for Comparisons on Body Sites, Age and Washing.

Purpose: Assessing the percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients using in-vitro human skin reveals certain limitations, such as restricted anatomical sites and repeated exposure, and to overcome these issues, in-vivo studies are required. The aim of the study is to develop a robust non-invasive in-vivo protocol that should be applicable to a wide range of application.

Methods: A robust tape stripping protocol was therefore designed according to recent recommendations, and the impact of two different washing procedures on caffeine distribution in tape strips was investigated to optimise the protocol.

Use of Physiologically-Based Kinetics Modelling to Reliably Predict Internal Concentrations of the UV Filter, Homosalate, After Repeated Oral and Topical Application.

Ethical and legal considerations have led to increased use of non-animal methods to evaluate the safety of chemicals for human use. We describe the development and qualification of a physiologically-based kinetics (PBK) model for the cosmetic UV filter ingredient, homosalate, to support its safety without the need of generating further animal data. The intravenous (IV) rat PBK model, using PK-Sim, was developed and validated using legacy data generated prior to the 2013 EU animal-testing ban.

Use of an In Vitro Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Assay (Skin-PAMPA) as a Screening Tool to Compare Transdermal Permeability of Model Compound 4-Phenylethyl-Resorcinol Dissolved in Different Solvents.

Absorption through the skin of topically applied chemicals is relevant for both formulation development and safety assessment, especially in the early stages of development. However, the supply of human skin is limited, and the traditional in vitro methods are of low throughput. As an alternative, an artificial membrane-based Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay (Skin-PAMPA) has been developed to mimic the permeability through the stratum corneum.

Elongated microparticles tuned for targeting hyaluronic acid delivery to specific skin strata.

Objective: Microneedle or fractional laser applications are the most common topical delivery enhancement platforms. However, these methods of drug delivery are not skin strata specific. Drug delivery approaches which could target specific stratum of the skin remains a challenge.

Skin hydration as a tool to control the distribution and molecular effects of intermediate polarity compounds in intact stratum corneum.

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead keratin-filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. The skin is daily exposed to an environment with changing conditions in terms of hydration and different chemicals. Here we investigate how a molecule that has reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to certain regions in SC by changing the skin hydration.

Effective exposure of chemicals in in vitro cell systems: A review of chemical distribution models.

Nominal effect concentrations from in vitro toxicity assays may lead to inaccurate estimations of in vivo toxic doses because the nominal concentration poorly reflects the concentration at the molecular target in cells in vitro, which is responsible for initiating effects and can be referred to as the biologically effective dose. Chemicals can differentially distribute between in vitro assay compartments, including serum constituents in exposure medium, microtitre plate plastic, headspace and extracellular matrices. The partitioning of test chemicals to these extracellular compartments reduces the concentration at the molecular target.

Metabolism and plasma protein binding of 16 straight- and branched-chain parabens in in vitro liver and skin models.

Parabens are alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA), with short-chain parabens used as antimicrobials in cosmetics. We investigated the impact of chain structure on skin and liver metabolism. Incubations with primary human hepatocytes and human liver S9 indicated that methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben were rapidly metabolized to similar metabolites, including 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols.

Partition coefficient and diffusion coefficient determinations of 50 compounds in human intact skin, isolated skin layers and isolated stratum corneum lipids.

A standard protocol was used to determine partition (K) and diffusion (D) coefficients in dermatomed human skin and isolated human skin layers for 50 compounds relevant to cosmetics ingredients. K values were measured in dermatomed skin, isolated dermis, whole epidermis, intact stratum corneum (SC), delipidized SC and SC lipids by direct measurements of the radioactivity in the tissue layers/lipid component vs. buffer samples.