Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Aging Without Side Effects.

Background: Vitamin A, or retinol, is one of the most effective antiaging molecules, but it presents issues with photo-sensitivity and irritation. Alternatives are emerging, but have so far been less effective.

Objective: Here, we present a Silibum marianum extract (SME) as a retinol-like ingredient providing both safety and efficacy.

Epigallocatechin Gallate Enzymatic Alpha Glucosylation Potentiates Its Skin-Lightening Activity-Involvement of Skin Microbiota.

(1) Background: Ultraviolet radiation takes part in photoaging and pigmentation disorders on skin. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is a well-known brightening and photoprotective compound but it faces limitations in terms of stability and solubility. (2) Methods: A more stable and water-soluble glucoside called EGCG-G1 was obtained by enzymatic glucosylation of EGCG.

Analysis of Active Components and Transcriptome of Callus Extract and Its Effects against Oxidative Stress and Wrinkles in Skin.

(FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid.

Facial pore refining by targeting dermal and epidermal functions: Assessment across age and gender.

Background: Conspicuous facial pores are benign but represent a cosmetic concern for men and women. Recent works described dermal and epidermal impairments as clinical causes of enlarged pores. Morphological modifications of skin at the site of pores were associated with collagen density loss, possible alteration of extracellular matrix and abnormal differentiation of keratinocytes.

Evaluation of the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid: From biological evaluation to consumer home use trial.

Active ingredients are often assessed based on physiological measurements, but innovative technologies to measure skin sensations can provide a holistic volunteer assessment of the use of an ingredient. In this paper, the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) were evaluated alongside clinical biometrics and innovative cognitive measurements to determine how biological benefits correlated with volunteers' feelings and perceptions of hydration. The results demonstrated that cationic HA provides hydrating benefits at the clinical level due to its film-forming properties.

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid vectorised with clay provides long-term hydration and reduces skin brightness.

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a widely used active cosmetic ingredient. Its multiple skin care benefits are modulated by its molecular weight. Low molecular weight (LMW) HA can penetrate the skin, but high molecular weight (HMW) HA remains at the surface.

A highly soluble form of rutin for instant resolution of mask-wearing related disorders.

Background: The COVID-19 pandemic brought about a new normal, necessitating the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) like face shields, surgical masks, gloves, and goggles. However, prolonged mask-wearing introduced skin-related issues due to changes in the skin's microenvironment, including increased humidity and temperature, as well as pressure on the skin. These factors led to skin deformation, vascular issues, edema, and inflammation, resulting in discomfort and cosmetic concerns.

Skin Cellular Reprogramming as an Innovative Anti-Aging Strategy for Cosmetic Application: A Clinical Study of Sericoside.

Background: While our body ages, skin cells progressively lose their pluripotency and proliferative capacities, as well as remodeling driver role, among other activities. This loss of capacities leads to visible aging signs such as wrinkles, under-eye bags or even aging spots. We studied if the stimulation of cell pluripotency and proliferation by a natural molecule could be an innovative anti-ageing strategy for skin rejuvenation.

Enzymatic Synthesis of α-Glucosyl-Baicalin through Transglucosylation via Cyclodextrin Glucanotransferase in Water.

Baicalin is a biologically active flavone glucuronide with poor water solubility that can be enhanced via glucosylation. In this study, the transglucosylation of baicalin was successfully achieved with CGTases from sp. and using α-cyclodextrin as a glucosyl donor.

Extract, with a Melatonin-like Activity, Protects against Digital Stress and Reverses Signs of Aging.

Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging.

Targeting SDF-1 as an efficient strategy to resolve skin hyperpigmentation issues with Himanthalia elongata extract.

Background: During aging, human skin is facing hyperpigmentation disorders: senile lentigo (chronobiologic aging) leads to loss of melanogenesis' control while solar lentigo (UV exposure) promotes an increase of oxidized proteins, melanogenesis, and lipofuscin.

Aims: Stromal-cell-derived-factor-1 (SDF-1) was identified as key regulator of hyperpigmentation and its expression is reduced in senescent fibroblasts, highlighting this protein as new target for skin hyperpigmentation.

Materials: We developed two skin explant models mimicking of senile and solar lentigo, based on H O systemic treatment and UV irradiation, respectively.

Action of Leaf Extract on Acne-Prone Skin through Sebum Harmonization and Targeting .

(1) Background: Preclinical studies report that the ethanolic fraction from Mangifera indica leaves is a potential anti-acne agent. Nevertheless, the biological activity of Mangifera indica leaves has scarcely been investigated, and additional data are needed, especially in a clinical setting, for establishing the actual effectiveness of Mangifera indica extract as an active component of anti-acne therapy. (2) Methods: The evaluation of the biological activity of Mangifera indica extract was carried out through different experimental phases, which comprised in silico, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical evaluations.

Bacterial taxa predictive of hyperpigmented skins.

Background And Aims: Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell-derived factor-1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system.

The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate.

Background: Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling.

Objective: Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution.

Combining Raman imaging and MCR-ALS analysis for monitoring retinol permeation in human skin.

Background: Monitoring the transcutaneous permeation of exogenous molecules using conventional techniques generally requires long pre-analytical preparation or labelling of samples. However, Raman spectroscopy is a label-free and non-destructive method which provides spatial distribution of tracked actives in skin. The aim of our study was to prove the interest of Raman imaging coupled with multivariate curve resolution alternating least square (MCR-ALS) analysis in monitoring retinol penetration into frozen and living human skin.

Mannose-6-phosphate complex and improvement in biomechanical properties of the skin.

Background: The dermis is composed of a tangle of macromolecules that provides the skin its biomechanical properties. During chronological aging, fibroblasts lose their ability to synthesize collagen and an accumulation of matrix metalloproteinases leads to an increase in collagen degradation. As a result, there is a decline in the biomechanical properties of the skin.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

Objective: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness.

Optimize, Modulate, and Scale-up Resveratrol and Resveratrol Dimers Bioproduction in L. Cell Suspension from Flasks to 20 L Bioreactor.

Resveratrol and its oligomers are biologically active compounds. This work brings new insights for the bioproduction of -resveratrol with three dimers, pallidol, -ε-viniferin, and -δ-viniferin, in cell suspension of . Conditions of elicitation by methyl jasmonate were optimized for the production of stilbenes using statistical design of experiment.

Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stressed conditions.

Background: Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin.

Aim: The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti-aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release.

From stem cells protection to skin microbiota balance: Orobanche rapum extract, a new natural strategy.

Background: Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders.

Reconstruction of HMBC Correlation Networks: A Novel NMR-Based Contribution to Metabolite Mixture Analysis.

A new in silico method is introduced for the dereplication of natural metabolite mixtures based on HMBC and HSQC spectra that inform about short-range and long-range H-C correlations occurring in the carbon skeleton of individual chemical entities. Starting from the HMBC spectrum of a metabolite mixture, an algorithm was developed in order to recover individualized HMBC footprints of the mixture constituents. The collected H-C correlations are represented by a network of NMR peaks connected to each other when sharing either a H or C chemical shift value.

Computer-aided Dereplication and Structure Elucidation of Natural Products at the University of Reims.

Natural product chemistry began in Reims, France, in a pharmacognosy research laboratory whose main emphasis was the isolation and identification of bioactive molecules, following the guidelines of chemotaxonomy. The structure elucidation of new compounds of steadily increasing complexity favored the emergence of methodological work in nuclear magnetic resonance. As a result, our group was the first to report the use of proton-detected heteronuclear chemical shift correlation spectra for the computer-assisted structure elucidation of small organic molecules driven by atom proximity relationships and without relying on databases.

Computer-Aided C NMR Chemical Profiling of Crude Natural Extracts without Fractionation.

A computer-aided, C NMR-based dereplication method is presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts without any fractionation. An algorithm was developed in order to compare the C NMR chemical shifts obtained from a single routine spectrum with a set of predicted NMR data stored in a natural metabolite database. The algorithm evaluates the quality of the matching between experimental and predicted data by calculating a score function and returns the list of metabolites that are most likely to be present in the studied extract.

Bioactivity-guided identification of antimicrobial metabolites in Alnus glutinosa bark and optimization of oregonin purification by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography.

Barks from conifers and broadleaved trees constitute abundant wastes generated from wood harvesting and logging activities. Extracts of such residues obtained from Alnus trees have been reported as interesting resources with potent antibacterial activities. The present study aims to determine the antimicrobial activity of a crude methanol extract prepared from the bark of Alnus glutinosa against a panel of 22 bacteria and yeasts and to optimize a purification method enabling the high production of the most active substances.