Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin.

Background: Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

Eco-friendly sunscreen formulation based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin increases the antioxidant capacity and the light scattering activity in the visible light.

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations.

Skin characterization and immediate effects of different dermocosmetic treatments in French and Brazilian skin.

Background: All over the world, people face the same skin problems. However, their skin characteristics are different. Thus, it is a challenge to prescribe treatments that will be effective on different skin types.

, , , and extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of toxicity and acceptability studies.

The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their acceptability studies. , , and extracts were analysed alone or in combination and added in cosmetic formulations.

Safety of a formulation containing chitosan microparticles with chamomile: blind controlled clinical trial.

Objective: to evaluate the safety of a topical formulation containing chamomile microparticles coated with chitosan in the skin of healthy participants.

Method: phase I blind, controlled, non-randomized, single-dose clinical trial with control for skin, base formulation, and formulation with microparticles. The variables analyzed were irritation and hydration by the Wilcoxon and Kruskall-Wallis tests.

Development and photoprotective effect of a sunscreen containing the antioxidants Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol on sun-induced skin damage.

The literature claims that incorporation of antioxidants into sunscreens provides additional skin photoprotection by scavenging free radicals formed due to sun radiation, but there are limited in vivo studies that support this hypothesis. This study aims to examine whether addition of antioxidants to a broad-spectrum sunscreen increases its photoprotective effect in real-use conditions. Sunscreen formulations composed of stable UV filters (Tinosorb® S, Tinosorb® M, Uvinul® APlus, and Uvinul® T150) alone or in combination with antioxidants (Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles) were developed and their appearance, odor, rheological behavior, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), and UVA protection were analyzed.

Use of silicon for skin and hair care: an approach of chemical forms available and efficacy.

Silicon is the second most abundant element on Earth, and the third most abundant trace element in human body. It is present in water, plant and animal sources. On the skin, it is suggested that silicon is important for optimal collagen synthesis and activation of hydroxylating enzymes, improving skin strength and elasticity.

Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: cosmetic properties and safety evaluation.

Context: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption.

Objectives: To evaluate oil content and sun protection factor (SPF) variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties, including antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of UM obtained from green Coffea arabica seed oil.

Materials And Methods: The safety and potential cosmetic properties of UM extracted from green coffee oil (GCO) were evaluated by the brine shrimp viability and the MTT cytotoxicity assays.

Synergistic effects of green tea and ginkgo biloba extracts on the improvement of skin barrier function and elasticity.

This study aimed to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing green tea (GT) and/or Ginkgo biloba (GB) extracts by preclinical and clinical studies. For the preclinical study, histological analysis was performed after 5 day-period of formulations application on the dorsum of hairless mice. For the clinical study, the formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 48 volunteers, and assessed before and after 3 hours and after a 15 and 30 day-period of application.

The use of green tea extract in cosmetic formulations: not only an antioxidant active ingredient.

Green tea (GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts (GT).

Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations.

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins.

Efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid and kinetin.

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E.

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm.

Rheological behavior, zeta potential, and accelerated stability tests of Buriti oil (Mauritia flexuosa) emulsions containing lyotropic liquid crystals.

Background: It is well known that the Amazon region presents a huge biodiversity; therefore, countless natural resources are being employed in the production of phytocosmetics and phytomedicines.

Objective: The purpose of this work was to obtain emulsions produced with Buriti oil and non-ionic surfactants.

Methods: Two surfactant systems were employed (Steareth-2 associated to Ceteareth-5 and to Ceteareth-20) to produce the emulsions using phase diagram method.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods.

Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations.

Stability of cosmetic formulations containing esters of vitamins E and A: chemical and physical aspects.

Cosmetic stability prediction relies on quantitative chemical determinations of active components after certain times and in different temperatures. However, physical stability, an important parameter in skin care products is not considered in these conditions. This study proposes the determination of cosmetic stability chemical and physical parameters validated by (HPLC) chromatography and rheological measurements, respectively, using a gel-cream containing retinyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate as a model system.

Letter: radical ion and protonated molecule formation with retinal in electrospray and nanospray.

This paper reports a preliminary study of the nanospray ionisation mass spectrometry analyses of retinoic acid and retinal. The results are compared and contrasted to the results normally observed with electrospray ionisation. A significant difference in behaviour was observed for the balance between radical ion formation and protonated molecule formation for retinal.