Forgotten Perfumery Plants - Part II: New Insights into the Development of Novel Fragrant Ingredients - Hawthorn Case Study.

Naturalness is gaining ground among perfumers and the use of natural raw materials is spreading in perfumery. Forgotten perfumery plants are of concern to develop innovative and natural ingredients for modern perfume industries. The main purpose of this study was to evaluate the potential interest of Crataegus monogyna Jacq.

Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.

Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envelope, S100 protein family). The biological activities of HIEO and neryl acetate (NA) were compared to identify how NA contributes to HIEO activity on human skin. NA, as a part component of HIEO, was tested on skin explant models for 24 hours and 5 days in comparison with HIEO.

Modulation of transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) in reconstructed human epidermis by excipients known to permeate intestinal tight junctions.

Several excipients are commonly used to enhance the drug absorption through simple epithelia of the digestive tract. They permeate the paracellular barrier constituted by tight junctions (TJs). We compared the effects of two excipients, sodium caprate (C10) and a self-emulsifying excipient Labrasol composed of a mixture of caprylocaproyl polyoxyl-8 glycerides, both applied to emerged reconstructed human epidermis either 'systemically', that is by addition to the culture medium, or topically.

Compartmentalization of the human stratum corneum by persistent tight junction-like structures.

Several tight junction (TJ) proteins were detected in the living layers of adult human epidermis, and TJ-like membrane ridges were observed at the top of the stratum granulosum (SG) in freeze-fracture studies. We applied standard and immunoelectron microscopy to look for TJ-derived structures in the stratum corneum (SC) of human adult epidermis and in cornified envelopes purified from the plantar SC. Besides confirming claudin-1 labelling in the proximity of SG desmosomes, we also observed immunolocalization near corneodesmosomes in the lower SC.

Skin cell protection against UVA by Sideroxyl, a new antioxidant complementary to sunscreens.

Oxidative stress resulting from photosensitized ROS production in skin is widely accepted as the main contributor to the deleterious effects of UVA exposure. Among the mechanisms known to be involved in UVA-induced oxidative damage, iron plays a central role. UVA radiation of skin cells induces an immediate release of iron, which can then act as a catalyst for uncontrolled oxidation reactions of cell components.

The in vitro skin irritation of chemicals: optimisation of the EPISKIN prediction model within the framework of the ECVAM validation process.

In view of the increasing need to identify non-animal tests able to predict acute skin irritation of chemicals, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) focused on the evaluation of appropriate in vitro models. In vitro tests should be capable of discriminating between irritant (I) chemicals (EU risk: R38) and non-irritant (NI) chemicals (EU risk: "no classification"). Since major in vivo skin irritation assays rely on visual scoring, it is still a challenge to correlate in vivo clinical signs with in vitro biochemical measurements.

Iron chelation can modulate UVA-induced lipid peroxidation and ferritin expression in human reconstructed epidermis.

Background/purpose: As ferritin has been identified as an important factor in antioxidant defense in cultured human skin cells, we evaluated UVA-induced lipid hydroperoxides (LPO) production and ferritin expression in reconstructed human epidermis in vitro.

Results: Ferritin is regularly present in the basal layer of unirradiated epidermis both in the human skin in vivo and in the reconstructed human epidermis in vitro. Following acute UVA exposure, ferritin expression increased in basal epidermal cells in both models.