In vitro skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from a cosmetic formulation.

There is a concern that peptides in cosmetic creams marketed as anti-aging/anti-wrinkle may penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and potentially stimulate biological activity. Claims for one cosmetic peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Ac-EEMQRR-amide), suggest interference with neuromuscular signaling as its anti-wrinkle mechanism of action. Therefore, the skin penetration of commercially available Ac-EEMQRR-amide from a cosmetic formulation (oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion) was determined in hairless guinea pig (HGP) and human cadaver skin assembled into in vitro diffusion cells.

Rapid determination of hexapeptides by hydrophilic interaction LC-MS/MS for in vitro skin-penetration studies.

Background: A sensitive analytical method is needed for assessing penetration of topically applied peptides for in vitro skin-penetration studies.

Results: A rapid hydrophilic interaction LC (HILIC)-MS/MS method for analyzing the polar peptides Ac-EEMQRR-amide and H2N-EEMQRR-amide in various skin layers and matrices has been developed and evaluated. The matrices included emulsion, receptor fluids, cotton-tipped applicators, stratum corneum tape strips, epidermis and dermis of the skin.