Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation.

Background: Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis.

Evaluation of dermal extracellular matrix and epidermal-dermal junction modifications using matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometric imaging, in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy, echography, and histology: effect of age and peptide applications.

This study was conducted to establish a new methodology for evaluating elements of dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), of epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ), and effects of molecules which can modulate their synthesis. This methodology is based on matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometric imaging (MALDI-MSI). In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (in vivo RCM) and echography were also used.

Development of a multiparametric in vitro model of skin sensitization.

Most animal experiments on cosmetics safety are prohibited and since March 2013, this obligation includes sensitization tests. However, until now there has been no validated alternative in vitro method. In this work, 400 compounds used in the cosmetic industry were selected to cover the greatest diversity of structures, biological activities and sensitizing potential.

Cosmeceuticals and active ingredients.

Cosmetic ingredients previously considered "inert" have potential to provide a biologic effect to skin. In a cosmeceutical formulation, the boundary between an "active" and "inert" ingredient may be obscured. For this reason, the cosmeceutical distributor must find a nonambiguous method to demonstrate the efficacy of a new ingredient.