How to help the skin cope with glycoxidation.

Background: Protein glycation refers to the spontaneous reaction of reducing sugars with proteins and the subsequent formation of stable advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Glycation is linked with oxidative stress, and this association is called "glycoxidation". Glycoxidation alters the protein structure and function and causes tissue aging, as seen in human skin.

On the effects of a plant extract of Orthosiphon stamineus on sebum-related skin imperfections.

Overproduction of sebum is very common and results in an undesirable oily, shiny complexion with enlarged pores. Sebum secretion is basically under the control of 5-α reductase, and more particularly under that of type 1 isozyme. But it is also highly sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature, humidity and food.

The weak rate of sphingolipid biosynthesis shown by basal keratinocytes isolated from aged vs. young donors is fully rejuvenated after treatment with peptides of a potato hydrolysate.

A new study was carried out to bring more information on the effect of the potato proteins ferment. Basal keratinocytes obtained from freshly excised skin samples of two groups of five donors, a young one (25-36-year-old) and an aged one (59-70-year-old) were established in culture. The results showed a downward trend in the content of all lipid fractions in untreated keratinocytes of aged donors when compared with young ones.

Block copolymers of the type poly(caprolactone)-b-poly(ethylene oxide) for the preparation and stabilization of nanoemulsions.

Block copolymers poly(caprolactone)-block-poly(ethylene oxide) are promising non-ionic macromolecular surfactants for the stabilization of emulsions because they display a stronger adsorption and provide an increased long-term stability. But such amphiphilic copolymers should also allow the fabrication of the suspensions according to the emulsification process used. An evaluation of such block copolymers was done regarding the nanoprecipitation and the miniemulsion polymerization processes that both afford aqueous suspensions of nanoparticles.

Contribution of encapsulation on the biodisponibility of retinol.

To show the benefits of retinol encapsulation in cosmetic industry, we compared the diffusion of two different retinol preparations through skin:oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions of retinol, also called 'free retinol', and suspension of Cylasphere including retinol, also called 'encapsulated retinol'. Two methods were used: Franz cell elucidated retinol release and storage in a hairless mouse skin according to time for the two types of preparations. The dosage of retinol by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) showed that encapsulated retinol was maintained into the skin for a longer time than free retinol.