Animal-free coacervates: The combination of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic for the encapsulation of lipophilic compounds.

In this study, fungal chitosan (FC) and gum Arabic (GA) were combined to develop non-animal complex coacervates for encapsulation. Optimal coacervate formation occurred at pH 5 with a 1:4 (FC:GA) weight ratio. Innovative complementary approaches, including rheology coupled with phase-contrast microscopy, revealed that FC-GA coacervates could withstand high shear rates, reverting to their original structure afterward, making them suitable for industrial applications.

Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study.

Objective: Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.

Rheological properties of Triumfetta cordifolia gum solutions in the concentrated regime.

The polyelectrolyte gum from Triumfetta cordifolia stem bark has recently come to the fore for its remarkable potential as an emulsifier and stabilizer for aqueous formulations. This paper presents the rheological study of T. cordifolia gum aqueous solutions in the concentrated regime (C > C** = 0.

An Innovative Methodology to Characterize, at the Molecular Scale, Interactions in Polysaccharide Aqueous Solutions.

Characterizing molecular interactions at the microscopic level remains difficult and, therefore, represents a key target to better understand macromolecule and biomacromolecule behaviors in solution, alone, or in mixtures with others. Therefore, accurate characterization in liquid media, especially in aqueous solutions, without causing any perturbation of the system in which they are studied, is quite difficult. To this purpose, the present paper describes an innovative methodology based on fluorescence spectrophotometry.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics.

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions.

Gum as a Promising Bio-Ingredient to Stabilize Emulsions with Potentials in Cosmetics.

The cosmetics industry is searching for efficient and sustainable substances capable of stabilizing emulsions or colloidal dispersions that are thermodynamically unstable because of their high surface energy. Therefore, surfactants are commonly used to stabilize the water/oil interface. However, the presence of a surfactant is not always sufficient to obtain stable emulsions on the one hand, and conventional surfactants are often subject to such controversies as their petroleum origin and environmental concerns on the other hand.

Understanding of the residual odour of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products.

Objective: Fatty esters are known for their versatility, but in addition to their performance as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, or dispersing agents, they have to meet more and more criteria to be used in cosmetic products. Thus, their olfactory characteristics are expected to be as neutral as possible. However, despite a step of deodorization during the synthesis of fatty esters, a residual odour is currently still perceived at the end of the process.

Multifunctional active ingredient-based delivery systems for skincare formulations: A review.

Nowadays, there is a growing demand for effective cosmetic skincare products that can address the specific skin problems of consumers. Delivery systems play an important role in the effective action of cosmetic skincare formulations. Delivery systems are attractive and smart technologies used as carriers for cosmetic ingredients, which are sensitive to various physical factors such as light, oxygen, pH and temperature.

Original tools for xanthan hydrophobization in green media: Synthesis and characterization of surface activity.

Xanthan gum (XG) was modified through esterification using various alkenyl succinic anhydrides in green media. FTIR and NMR spectroscopy confirmed that the alkenyl succinic hydrophobic groups were successfully grafted on octenyl-grafted (XG-C8), dodecenyl-grafted (XG-C12), and hexadecenyl-grafted (XG-C16) xanthan backbone. Grafted chains were evaluated by degree of succinylation (DS).

Leather Dyeing by Plant-Derived Colorants in the Presence of Natural Additives.

This research aimed to dye leather fabric samples with the application of plant-derived colorants and natural additives. Two grades of chitosan were used as additives, in addition to caffeine, nettle extract, and shellac solution. The ability of colorants to dye leather fabric and the impact of additives on leather fabric properties such as structure, color intensity, color stability under exposure to UVC irradiation, and mechanical properties were examined.

Plant-Derived Colorants for Food, Cosmetic and Textile Industries: A Review.

This review provides a report on properties and recent research advances in the application of plant-derived colorants in food, cosmetics and textile materials. The following colorants are reviewed: Polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonol-quercetin and curcumin), isoprenoids (iridoids, carotenoids and quinones), N-heterocyclic compounds (betalains and indigoids), melanins and tetrapyrroles with potential application in industry. Future aspects regarding applications of plant-derived colorants in the coloration of various materials are also discussed.

Impact of the synergistic interaction between xanthan and galactomannan on the stickiness properties of residual film after application on a surface.

The objective was to investigate the influence of synergism between xanthan gum (X) and galactomannans (guar gum (G) and locust bean gum (L)) on the stickiness of the film formed after the application of polysaccharides on a surface. The adhesion of the film was evaluated using a texture analyzer. X, G, and L were examined in concentrated solutions (0.

Impact of cigarette smoke on physical-chemical and molecular proprieties of human skin in an ex vivo model.

Background: This is a study about the skin ageing exposome, focusing on the effect of cigarette smoke. Human living skin explants (HSE) were exposed to cigarette smoke (CS) of two cigarettes for 2 hours using a custom-made exposure chamber, the Pollubox . Effects on the surface physico-chemistry and molecular properties of the skin were analyzed and reported for the first time.

Residual film formation after emulsion application: Understanding the role and fate of excipients on skin surface.

This study focuses on the fate of excipients contained in topical emulsions once applied on the skin. The aim was thus to develop a methodology to characterize the residue left on the skin shortly after emulsion application. To this end, both the role and the impact of the different excipients on the formation and properties of the residue left on the skin surface once a product is applied were investigated.

Design of a Lipid-Coated Polymeric Material Mimic Human Skin Surface Properties: a Performing Tool to Evaluate Skin Interaction with Topical Products.

An original nonbiological skin model (NBSM) has been developed to mimSic skin surface properties. This skin model presents several improvements when compared to existing ones: it has a topography identical to that of skin and a lipid composition close to that of the skin face. This imparts to the model surface a physicochemistry similar to skin.

Impact of backbone stiffness and hydrophobic chain length of modified xanthan on oil in water emulsion stabilization.

The impact of xanthan chemical modification under both ordered and disordered conformations on oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion stabilization was investigated. While both hydrophobically modified xanthan (HMX) are able to stabilize the O/W interface, a dramatic difference was observed macroscopically. When HMX (ordered conformation) could produce stable emulsions at concentrations down to 0.

Instrumental and sensory methodologies to characterize the residual film of topical products applied to skin.

Background: The work is aimed at the development of a methodology to characterize the tactile properties of topical products during application. Specific attention was paid to the study of the residual properties left at the surface of the skin. This approach was interestingly used to better understand the formulation factors governing the skinfeel of topical preparations.

Squalene Oxidation Induced by Urban Pollutants: Impact on Skin Surface Physico-Chemistry.

The effect of urban pollutants on skin properties has been revealed through several epidemiological studies. However, comprehension of involved mechanisms remains undetermined. In addition, the impact of such stressors on skin surface properties, especially skin physico-chemistry, has not been investigated.

Skin surface physico-chemistry: Characteristics, methods of measurement, influencing factors and future developments.

Physico-chemical properties such as surface free energy, polarity or hydrophobicity of solid surfaces have been largely studied in literature because they are involved in many physical phenomena: adhesion, friction, wetting … Nowadays, the study of biointerfaces is of great interest for the medical, the pharmaceutical or the cosmetic field but also for material design researches, especially for the development of biomimetic surfaces. The present paper focuses on a particular biointerface, namely skin, which is the most extended organ of the human body. The different ways for the study of skin physico-chemistry are first reviewed, followed by their practical uses, from pharmaceutical to cosmetic science.

Prediction of residual film perception of cosmetic products using an instrumental method and non-biological surfaces: The example of stickiness after skin application.

Prediction of sensory texture attributes using instrumental measurements is a very important challenge for cosmetic industry because in vivo sensory studies are expensive, time consuming and limited by the safety issue of applied products. The aim of this work is to investigate how residual sensory properties of cosmetic products can be predicted without using a panel of assessors, focusing on the residual film attribute "Stickiness". 10 cosmetic products with different galenics have been selected and evaluated in vivo using a classical sensory protocol, developed according to the Spectrum Descriptive Analysis method.

Hydrophobically modified xanthan: Thickening and surface active agent for highly stable oil in water emulsions.

Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were prepared using exclusively a hydrophobically modified xanthan (HMX) under ordered conformation without any surfactant. A series of HMX differing in grafting density were utilized at different concentrations. It was demonstrated that HMX stabilizes O/W emulsions where pristine xanthan do not.

Chemical modification of xanthan in the ordered and disordered states: An open route for tuning the physico-chemical properties.

The impact of the chain stiffness on physicochemical properties has been studied by chemical modification of xanthan under both ordered and disordered conformations. Corresponding rheological properties were studied and results showed that amphiphilic xanthan exhibited completely different behaviors depending on its conformation during modification. Xanthan, when modified under ordered conformation, exhibits similar behavior to non-modified one, only the chain relaxation being strongly slowed down.

Impact of coated TiO-nanoparticles used in sunscreens on two representative strains of the human microbiota: Effect of the particle surface nature and aging.

The impact of two differently coated TiO-nanoparticles (NPs) was evaluated on two representative bacteria from the cutaneous microbiota (Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas fluorescens) in conditions of use. Particles were coated in order to exhibit either hydrophilic or hydrophobic behavior. A first exposure scenario within some fresh/aged model emulsions was developed in order to measure both the impact of the NPs presence and their surface nature during the emulsions conservation.

Spreading properties of cosmetic emollients: Use of synthetic skin surface to elucidate structural effect.

The study focuses on the impact of structural and physicochemical properties of emollients on their spreadability. Fifty-three emollients, among which esters, silicones, vegetable and mineral oils, have been characterized. Their viscosity, surface tension, density and spreadability have been measured.