Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis.

A new analytical approach based on high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and multivariate data analysis was applied and assessed for analyzing the red dye extracted from cochineal insects, used in precious historical textiles. The most widely used method of analysis involves quantification of specific minor compounds (markers), using HPLC-DAD. However, variation in the cochineal markers concentration, use of aggressive dye extraction methods and poor resolution of HPLC chromatograms can compromise the identification of the precise insect species used in the textiles.

Characterization of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.) by high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-mass spectrometry in Arraiolos historical textiles.

The natural dyes, and dye sources, in two seventeenth century Arraiolos carpets from the National Museum of Machado de Castro were analysed by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV-vis diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) and HPLC-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Weld (Reseda luteola L.), indigo and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.

A photochemical study on the blue dye indigo: from solution to ancient Andean textiles.

The degradation of indigo and its water soluble derivative indigo carmine was investigated under light excitation in the presence and absence of molecular oxygen in solution (homogeneous) and gels (heterogeneous) media. Collagen and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) aqueous gels were chosen to simulate a natural textile environment, wool and cotton, respectively. Isatin was found to be the major degradation product of indigo.

Flavylium chromophores as species markers for dragon's blood resins from Dracaena and Daemonorops trees.

A simple and rapid liquid chromatographic method with diode-array UV-vis spectrophotometric detection has been developed for the authentication of dragon's blood resins from Dracaena and Daemonorops trees. Using this method it was discovered that the flavylium chromophores, which contribute to the red colour of these resins, differ among the species and could be used as markers to differentiate among species. A study of parameters, such as time of extraction, proportion of MeOH and pH, was undertaken to optimise the extraction of the flavyliums.

A study in mauve: unveiling Perkin's dye in historic samples.

The analysis of different historic mauve samples--mauve salts and dyed textiles--was undertaken to establish the exact nature of the iconic dye produced by W. H. Perkin in the nineteenth century.