Introduction: Acne is one of the most common skin concerns of unknown etiology, often connected to the menstrual cycle in women, and possibly to the microbial profile and function.
Objective: We aimed to investigate how hormonal fluctuation affects hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations in relation to skin clinical parameters and microbial profiles.
Methods: We evaluated skin features by using biophysical and topographical tools.
Background: In human skin, miRNAs have important regulatory roles and are involved in the development, morphogenesis, and maintenance by influencing cell proliferation, differentiation, immune regulation, and wound healing. MiRNAs have been investigated for many years in various skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, as well as malignant tumors. Only during recent times, cosmeceutical use of molecules/natural active ingredients to regulate miRNA expression for significant advances in skin health/care product development was recognized.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFClin Cosmet Investig Dermatol
December 2020
Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFInt J Cosmet Sci
October 2020
Background & Aims: Previous investigations have aimed at investigating parameters affecting age perception on several ethnicities. Perceived health has been a newer focus on Caucasian skin, yet little is known on the skin features used to estimate the health status of Chinese women and we aimed to investigate whether these cues are the same as those used for age perception.
Methods: Age and health appearance of 276 Chinese female volunteers were estimated from their photographs by 1025 female naïve Chinese graders 20-69 years old.
Background: The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product.
Aims: In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one.
Methods: Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups.
Background: As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFInt J Cosmet Sci
February 2019
Objective: In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).
Methods: Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study.
Background: The cause of enlarged pores remains obscure but still remains of concern for women. To complement subjective methods, bioengineered methods are needed for quantification of pores visibility following treatments. The study objective was to demonstrate the suitability of pore measurements from the Antera 3D.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFBackground: Skin topographic measurements are of paramount importance in the field of dermo-cosmetic evaluation. The aim of this study was to investigate how the Antera 3D, a multi-purpose handheld camera, correlates with other topographic techniques and changes in skin topography following the use of a cosmetic product.
Methods: Skin topographic measurements were collected on 26 female volunteers aged 45-70 years with the Antera 3D, the DermaTOP and image analysis on parallel-polarized pictures.
Background: One of the key strategies for anti-ageing in the cosmetics industry today is to target the structural changes responsible for ptosis of the skin, given its impact on age perception. Several objective and non-invasive methods are available to characterise the biomechanical properties of the skin, which are operator-dependent, involving skin contact and providing single-dimensional numerical descriptions of skin behaviour. The research introduces the DynaSKIN, a device using non-contact mechanical pressure in combination with fringe projection to quantify and visualise the skin response in 3-dimensions.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFBackground: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap), aiming for identification of new compounds with anti-ageing properties.
Objective: The aim of this study was to use structural activity relationship (SAR) analysis to identify a predictive mechanism of action of A-A-A. The findings from SAR will be further characterized by in vitro activity testing.
Objective: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFBackground: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A-A-A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application.
Objectives: To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A-A-A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre-formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations.
Objective: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the dermal absorption of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) through an in vitro and in vivo evaluation with human skin after 6 and 24 h of topical application of a cosmetic formulation containing A-A-A at 1%.
Methods: The in vitro experiment was carried out using the Franz diffusion cells system with ex vivo human skin samples. The profile of diffusion of A-A-A was evaluated after 6 and 24 h.
Background: The megatrend of population ageing is leading to a growing demand for "anti-ageing" treatments, especially to prevent or treat skin ageing. Facing an increasing offer, consumers are choosing more and more skin care products supported by a scientific rationale, active ingredients and clinical proof of efficacy.
Objective: Considering consumer expectations, this research led to the discovery of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A), a novel active ingredient to improve sagging skin and loss of skin firmness.
Objective: The desire for a youthful look remains a powerful motivator in the purchase of cosmetics by women globally. To develop an anti-ageing solution that targets the need of end consumers, it is critical to understand which signs of ageing really matter to them and which influence their age perception. To date, such research has not been performed in a Russian population.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFObjective: The need for effective 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photodamaged skin, prompted us to develop a novel method to identify new active ingredients. The model utilized a gene profiling study with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti-ageing compounds using all-trans retinoic acid (RA) as the lead compound due to its beneficial effect on photodamaged skin and skin firmness.
Method: A vehicle-controlled clinical study including nine healthy Caucasian female volunteers aged 57 ± 7 (mean ± SEM) exhibiting photodamage on their lower outer forearms was conducted.
In this study, we developed an organoculture of human skin to investigate the effect of topical applied all-trans retinoic acid using a gene array approach. We could by using this approach confirm previous studies on genes activated by RA in keratinocyte monocultures and also provide new insights on genes that are relevant to RA-activation in human skin. The results in the present study show this model represent a valuable pre-clinical model for studying the effects of retinoids in skin.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFSkin Pharmacol Physiol
February 2015
The skin is a metabolically active organ expressing biotransformation enzymes able to metabolize both endogenous molecules and xenobiotics. We investigated the impact of metabolism on the delivery of testosterone through the skin with an ex vivo pig ear skin system as an alternative model for human skin. Penetration, absorption and metabolic capabilities were investigated up to 72 h after application of [(14)C]-testosterone doses of 50-800 nmol on either fresh or frozen skin, with the latter model being metabolically inactive.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFDespite of its complex multicomponent organization and its compact architecture, the Stratum corneum (SC) is not completely impermeable to substances directly applied on the skin surface. A huge number of works have been dedicated to the understanding of the mechanisms involved in substance permeation by exploring deeper layers than the SC itself. Surprisingly, there is a poor interest in studies relating to interactions which may occur in the near-surface region (i.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFBiotransformation of chemicals by the skin is a critical determinant of systemic exposure in humans following dermal absorption. Pig ear skin potentially represents a valuable alternative model since it closely resembles to human skin. We developed an ex vivo pig ear skin system which absorption, diffusion and metabolic capabilities were investigated using benzo(a)pyrene [B(a)P] as a model molecule.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFThe biotransformation of chemicals by the skin can be a critical determinant of systemic exposure in humans following dermal absorption. Pig ear skin, which closely resembles human skin, is a candidate ex vivo alternative model for the investigation of xenobiotics penetration and metabolism. We developed an ex vivo pig ear skin model and explored its absorption, diffusion and metabolic capabilities using the model compound (14)C-ethoxycoumarin (7-EC).
View Article and Find Full Text PDFAn original method was developed to separate, identify and quantify the different benzo(a)pyrene (B(a)P) metabolites formed through oxidative and conjugative pathways. All B(a)P metabolites were separated by an improved high-performance liquid chromatography method, then detected and quantified relatively by online radioactivity detection. At the same time, metabolite structures were characterised by tandem mass spectrometry using two complementary ionisation modes: electrospray ionisation in the negative mode and atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation in the positive mode.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFReconstructed human epidermis models (RHE) constitute an innovative alternative to study phototoxicity and photoprotection in the cosmetic industry. However, little information is currently available concerning the harmful effects of solar-simulated radiation (SSR) in these in vitro skin models. In this study, the phototoxic effects of a single acute SSR dose of 275 kJ m(-2) were evaluated in a validated RHE model (from SkinEthic), and were compared with those obtained from an ex vivo skin organ culture recently developed from domestic pig ears.
View Article and Find Full Text PDFThere are a large number of studies on the pharmacological activity of lineolic acid (LA) on the skin; however, very little work has been carried out to determine how LA targets the follicular structure. The aim of this study was to identify the preferred route of penetration of LA and to localize the molecule, using a microautoradiographic technique associated with a compartmental approach. In an in vitro test using topical application of 0.
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