Discovery of a Highly Selective MC1R Agonists Pentapeptide to Be Used as a Skin Pigmentation Enhancer and with Potential Anti-Aging Properties.

One of the first lines of cutaneous defense against photoaging is a) the synthesis of melanin and b) the initiation of an oxidative stress response to protect skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation. Safe and selective means to stimulate epidermal pigmentation associated with oxidative stress defense are; however, scarce. Activation of the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on epidermal melanocytes represents a key step in cutaneous pigmentation initiation and, additionally, it regulates cellular defense mechanisms like oxidative stress and DNA-repair.

Design, synthesis, and biological evaluation of novel selective peptide inhibitors of 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1.

The enzyme 11β-HSD1 plays a crucial role in the tissue-specific regulation of cortisol levels and it has been associated with various diseases. Inhibition of 11β-HSD1 is an attractive intervention strategy and the discovery of novel selective 11β-HSD1 inhibitors is of high relevance. In this study, we identified and evaluated a new series of selective peptide 11β-HSD1 inhibitors with potential for skin care applications.

Novel 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 inhibitors reduce cortisol levels in keratinocytes and improve dermal collagen content in human ex vivo skin after exposure to cortisone and UV.

Activity and selectivity assessment of new bi-aryl amide 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (11β-HSD1) inhibitors, prepared in a modular manner via Suzuki cross-coupling, are described. Several compounds inhibiting 11β-HSD1 at nanomolar concentrations were identified. Compounds 2b, 3e, 7b and 12e were shown to selectively inhibit 11β-HSD1 over 11β-HSD2, 17β-HSD1 and 17β-HSD2.