Force-Velocity-Power Profile in High-Elite Boulder, Lead, and Speed Climber Competitors.

Purpose: To compare the force-production capacities among boulderers, lead climbers, and speed climbers during a pull-up test using a force-velocity-power profile.

Methods: In total, 24 high-elite climbers (11 boulderers, 8 lead climbers, and 5 speed climbers) did 2 pull-ups at different percentages of their body mass (0%, 30%, 45%, 60%, and 70%). Force-velocity-power profile analyses were performed with the use of an accelerometer for each load.

Self-Myofascial Release Effect With Foam Rolling on Recovery After High-Intensity Interval Training.

The goal of this experiment was to assess the impact of self-myofascial massage with the aid of a foam roller on a lower limb immediately after high-intensity interval training (HIIT), using the Tabata protocol (20 s work/10 s rest, repeated 8 times), according to selected recovery variables. The method used Tabata squats (20 s of air squats/10 s of rest, repeated 8 times), after which the subject performed three series of self-myofascial massage with a foam roller on one leg, the other leg being used as the control. Biomechanical lower limb performance was assessed through a squat jump, a countermovement jump, and a hopping on the spot test.

Acute Effects of Whole-Body Vibration on the Postural Organization of Gait Initiation in Young Adults and Elderly: A Randomized Sham Intervention Study.

Whole-body vibration (WBV) is a training method that exposes the entire body to mechanical oscillations while standing erect or seated on a vibrating platform. This method is nowadays commonly used by clinicians to improve specific motor outcomes in various sub-populations such as elderly and young healthy adults, either sedentary or well-trained. The present study investigated the effects of acute WBV application on the balance control mechanisms during gait initiation (GI) in young healthy adults and elderly.

Long-Term Effects of Whole-Body Vibration on Human Gait: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis.

Whole-body vibration is commonly used in physical medicine and neuro-rehabilitation as a clinical prevention and rehabilitation tool. The goal of this systematic review is to assess the long-term effects of whole-body vibration training on gait in different populations of patients. We conducted a literature search in PubMed, Science Direct, Springer, Sage and in study references for articles published prior to 7 December 2018.

Rate of force development and maximal force: reliability and difference between non-climbers, skilled and international climbers.

The goal of this study was to assess (i) test-retest reliability between sessions and within sessions, and (ii) the difference among three skill levels (international = 12, skilled = 10 and non-climbers = 9) for finger flexor maximal force (Fmax) and rate of force development (RFD) at different time scales. Each climber performed a maximal finger flexion on a dynamometer in two different conditions: half crimp and slope crimp. The inter-session revealed no difference with low to high correlation from 0.

Relationship between split-step timing and leg stiffness in world-class tennis players when returning fast serves.

This study investigated split-step timing when returning serves and whether this timing is related to neuromechanical capabilities in world-class tennis players. In Experiment 1, the split-step timing of four groups of world-class players (male and female ATP/WTA seniors, and ITF juniors) was measured on court when returning serves of the same level players. The four groups initiated the split-step at a similar time, starting around the time ball-racket contact in the serve stroke and landed when early ball-flight information was available.

Reliability, Sensitivity, and Minimal Detectable Change of a New Specific Climbing Test for Assessing Asymmetry in Reach Technique.

Čular, D, Dhahbi, W, Kolak, I, Iacono, AD, Bešlija, T, Laffaye, G, and Padulo, J. Reliability, sensitivity, and minimal detectable change of a new specific climbing test for assessing asymmetry in reach technique. J Strength Cond Res 35(2): 527-534, 2021-The aims of this study were to establish intertrial and intersession reliability, sensitivity, and minimal detectable change of a new climbing test specifically for assessing asymmetry in reach technique (TEST).

Multiple Repeated-Sprint Ability Test With Four Changes of Direction for Badminton Players (Part 2): Predicting Skill Level With Anthropometry, Strength, Shuttlecock, and Displacement Velocity.

Phomsoupha, M and Laffaye, G. Multiple repeated-sprint ability test with four changes of direction for badminton players (part 2): predicting skill level with anthropometry, strength, shuttlecock, and displacement velocity. J Strength Cond Res 34(1): 203-211, 2020-The goal of this study was: (a) to assess general and specific lower and upper limb force, shuttlecock velocity, displacement ability, and the anthropometric characteristics of badminton players at 5 skill levels, and (b) to predict individual players' number of points.

Multiple Repeated Sprint Ability Test for Badminton Players Involving Four Changes of Direction: Validity and Reliability (Part 1).

Phomsoupha, M, Berger, Q, and Laffaye, G. Multiple repeated sprint ability test for badminton players involving four changes of direction: validity and reliability (part 1). J Strength Cond Res 32(2): 423-431, 2018-The purpose of this study was: (a) to develop a new sport-specific, repeated-sprint ability test involving 4 changes of direction, namely, the multiple repeated sprint ability (MRSAB) test for badminton players; (b) to determine its validity by comparing the results of 5 different skill levels; and (c) to assess the link between the new test and neuromuscular lower limb and physiological variables.

Motivational orientations and performance in penalty throws during elite male team handball games.

This study is based on Regulatory Focus Theory and investigates the links between the subjects' motivational orientations for promotion or prevention and their performance in handball penalty throws. In a real-world setting with high stakes, we analyzed 327 penalties taken from 68 closed games. The results of the 7-meter throws constitute the dependent variable (Goal vs Miss).

Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers.

Levernier, G and Laffaye, G. Four weeks of finger grip training increases the rate of force development and the maximal force in elite and top world-ranking climbers. J Strength Cond Res 33(9): 2471-2480, 2019-The goal of this study was to assess the impact of a specific 4-week training program on finger grip in climbers; specifically, on the maximal force and the rate of force development (RFD) of finger muscles in isometric contraction.

Age- and gender-related development of stretch shortening cycle during a sub-maximal hopping task.

The aim of this study was to analyse the effects of age and gender (and their interaction) on a stretch shortening cycle solicited during a hopping task. For this aim, 147 girls and 148 boys aged 11 to 20 years, who were enrolled in middle school or secondary school with no experience in sport activity, or training less than three times per week, performed 3×5 hops in place. Leg-stiffness, jump-height and reactive-strength indices were assessed using an accelerometer (Myotest).

Neuromuscular and technical abilities related to age in water-polo players.

Testing is one of the important tasks in any multi-step sport programme. In most ball games, coaches assess motor, physical and technical skills on a regular basis in early stages of talent identification in order to further athletes' development. The purpose of the study was to investigate anthropometric variables and vertical jump heights as a free throw effectiveness predictor in water-polo players of different age groups.

Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength, anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue.

The goal of this study was to (i) assess the physical and anthropometric differences between three levels of climbers and (ii) predict climbing ability by using a multiple regression model. The participants were divided into novice (n = 15), skilled (n = 16), and elite (n = 10) climbers. Anthropometric characteristics such as height, weight, percentage of body fat and muscle, bi-acromial breath, arm span, and ape index were measured.

Changes in the Game Characteristics of a Badminton Match: A Longitudinal Study through the Olympic Game Finals Analysis in Men's Singles.

The goal of this study was to analyze, through a longitudinal study, the Olympic Badminton Men's singles finals from the Barcelona Games (1992) to the London Games (2012) to assess some changes of the Badminton game characteristics. Six Olympic finals have been analyzed based on the official video of the Olympic Games (OG) through the temporal structure and with a notational approach. In total, 537 rallies and 5537 strokes have been analyzed.

Reliability of the Wii Balance Board in kayak.

Background: the seat of the kayaker represent the principal contact point to express mechanical Energy.

Methods: therefore we investigated the reliability of the Wii Balance Board measures in the kayak vs. on the ground.

Repeated sprint ability in young basketball players: one vs. two changes of direction (Part 2).

The aim of this study was to compare the training effects based on repeated sprint ability (RSA) (with one change of direction) with an intensive repeated sprint ability (IRSA) (with two changes of direction) on jump performance and aerobic fitness. Eighteen male basketball players were assigned to repeated sprint ability and intensive repeated sprint ability training groups (RSAG and IRSAG). RSA, IRSA, squat jump (SJ), countermovement jump (CMJ) and Yo-Yo intermittent recovery level 1 test were assessed before and after four training weeks.

The science of badminton: game characteristics, anthropometry, physiology, visual fitness and biomechanics.

Badminton is a racket sport for two or four people, with a temporal structure characterized by actions of short duration and high intensity. This sport has five events: men's and women's singles, men's and women's doubles, and mixed doubles, each requiring specific preparation in terms of technique, control and physical fitness. Badminton is one of the most popular sports in the world, with 200 million adherents.

Repeated sprint ability in young basketball players: one vs. two changes of direction (Part 1).

The present study aimed to compare the changes of direction on repeated sprint ability (RSA) vs. intensive repeated sprint ability (IRSA) protocols in basketball. Eighteen young male basketball players performed on RSA [10 × 30-m (15 + 15-m, one change of direction)] and IRSA [10 × 30-m (10 + 10 + 10-m, two changes of direction)].

Motivational cues predict the defensive system in team handball: A model based on regulatory focus theory.

This study was based on the naturalistic decision-making paradigm and regulatory focus theory. Its aim was to model coaches' decision-making processes for handball teams' defensive systems based on relevant cues of the reward structure, and to determine the weight of each of these cues. We collected raw data by video-recording 41 games that were selected using a simple random method.

Reliability and validity of an accele-rometric system for assessing vertical jumping performance.

The validity of an accelerometric system (Myotest©) for assessing vertical jump height, vertical force and power, leg stiffness and reactivity index was examined. 20 healthy males performed 3×"5 hops in place", 3×"1 squat jump" and 3× "1 countermovement jump" during 2 test-retest sessions. The variables were simultaneously assessed using an accelerometer and a force platform at a frequency of 0.

Bench press exercise: the key points.

The bench press exercise (BPE) is receiving increasing interest as a field testing, training/therapeutic modality to improve neuromuscular performance or to increase bone mass density. Several studies have been performed using BPE as a standard for increasing upper-limb strength. For this purpose, the position of the bar, the loads, the sets, the number of repetitions, the recovery time in-between sets, the movement speed, the muscular work and the use of the determination of the one repetition maximum (1-RM) are the classical tools investigated in the literature that have been shown to affect the BPE effect on neuromuscular.