Publications by authors named "Jirˇi Balas"

Recent reviews have highlighted conflicting findings regarding the validity of finger flexor strength and endurance tests in sport climbers, often due to small sample sizes and low ecological validity of the tests used. To address these gaps, 185 male and 122 female climbers underwent maximal finger flexor strength, intermittent and continuous finger flexor endurance, and the finger hang tests in a sport-specific setting to determine the predictive and concurrent validity of these tests. The finger hang test showed the strongest relationship to climbing ability for both sexes ( ≈ 0.

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Introduction: Active recovery (AR) is used during exercise training; however, it is unclear whether the AR should involve the whole body, only the upper extremities, or only the lower extremities when aiming to maintain localized upper body performance. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the impact of different AR strategies on repeated intermittent finger flexor performance leading to exhaustion.

Methods: A crossover trial involving a familiarization session and three laboratory visits, each including three exhaustive intermittent isometric tests at 60% of finger flexor maximal voluntary contraction separated by 22 min of randomly assigned AR: walking, intermittent hanging, and climbing.

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Purpose: The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.

Methods: Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits.

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Background: Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies.

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Baláš, J, Kodejška, J, Procházková, A, Knap, R, and Tufano, JJ. Muscle cooling before and in the middle of a session: there are benefits on subsequent localized endurance performance in a warm environment. J Strength Cond Res 38(3): 533-539, 2024-Localized cold-water immersion (CWI) has been shown to facilitate recovery in the middle of a session of exhaustive repeated forearm contractions.

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Introduction: It is acknowledged that training during recovery periods after injury involves reducing both volume and intensity, often resulting in losses of sport-specific fitness. Therefore, this study aimed to compare the effects of high-intensity training (HIT) and low-intensity training with blood flow restriction (LIT + BFR) of the finger flexors in order to preserve climbing-specific strength and endurance.

Methods: In a crossover design, thirteen intermediate climbers completed two 5-week periods of isometric finger flexors training on a hangboard.

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Purpose: To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing.

Methods: Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands.

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Walking or balancing on a slackline has gained increasing popularity as a recreational and school sport, and has been found to be suitable for developing neuromuscular control. The metabolic requirements for neuromuscular control on slackline, however, have not been well described. Therefore, the aim of the study was to determine the metabolic demands of slacklining in less and more advanced slackliners.

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This study compared perceptional and physiological responses of finger flexor exercise performed with free flow and blood flow restriction (BFR). Thirteen male advanced climbers completed three sessions of finger flexor resistance exercise at (1) 40% of MVC (Low) and (2) 75% of MVC (High) and (3) BFR at 40% of MVC (Low + BFR) in a randomized and counterbalanced order. Rate of perceived exertion for effort (RPE) and discomfort (RPD), session pleasure/displeasure (sPDF), exercise enjoyment (EES), lactate concentration and oxygen saturation were recorded after the last set.

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Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task.

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Purpose: Although sport climbing is a self-paced whole-body activity, speed varies with climbing style, and the effect of this on systemic and localized oxygen responses is not well understood. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to determine muscle and pulmonary oxygen responses during submaximal climbing at differing speeds of ascent.

Methods: Thirty-two intermediate and advanced sport climbers completed three 4-minute-long ascents of the same route at 4, 6, and 9 m·min-1 on a motorized climbing ergometer (treadwall) on separate laboratory visits.

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Purpose: To examine the validity and reliability of a battery of 10 measures designed to assess the key physiological parameters for successful rock climbing performance.

Methods: In phase 1 of the research, an expert panel, using the Delphi method, established a 10-item test battery based on the key determinants of climbing performance. In phase 2, the tests were assessed for validity and reliability to examine their suitability as sport-specific measures of rock climbing performance.

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Purpose: Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ([Formula: see text]O) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic ̇[Formula: see text]O and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests.

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The purpose of the study was to compare the psychophysiological response of climbers of a range of abilities (lower grade to advanced) when ascending identical climbing routes on a climbing wall and a rotating treadwall. Twenty-two female climbers (31.2 ± 9.

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It is possible that during resistance training, a weak link in the kinetic chain could possibly result in under-stimulated prime movers. Since grip strength can be a limiting factor during multiple sets of various pulling exercises such as deadlifts, it is important to determine how lifting straps can affect mechanical performance, grip strength, perceived exertion and perceived grip security and power. Sixteen males (24.

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Background: This study aimed to compare the effect of traditional and stability-oriented strength exercises on trunk stability and deep stabilization system (DSS) activation in elite futsal players.

Methods: Twenty elite futsal players (21-34 years, 180 ± 13 cm, 79 ± 15 kg) were randomly divided into a group that performed stability-oriented exercises and a group that performed traditional strength exercises. Both interventions lasted for 10 weeks and included 25 strength training sessions.

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Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double-blind, randomised, cross-over design study, twelve participants performed an oxidative capacity assessment, and two successive exhaustive exercise trials (submaximal forearm muscle contractions at 60% of their maximal volitional contraction). Each visit was conducted following 7-days intake of 600 mg·day NZBC extract or placebo.

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Purpose: The purpose of this study was to examine differences in perceived exertion (RPE) and physiological responses for climbers of different abilities completing an identical route low and high above the ground.

Materials And Methods: Forty-two male ( = 18) and female ( = 24) sport climbers divided into three groups, lower-grade ( = 14), intermediate ( = 14), and advanced climbers ( = 14), completed two visits to a climbing gym, separated by 7 days. In a random order, the climbers completed a close-to-the-ground ascent (treadwall) and climb to height (climbing gym).

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The purpose of the present study was to assess the effect of different water immersion temperatures on handgrip performance and haemodynamic changes in the forearm flexors of males and females. Twenty-nine rock-climbers performed three repeated intermittent handgrip contractions to failure with 20 min recovery on three separate laboratory visits. For each visit, a randomly assigned recovery strategy was applied: cold water immersion (CWI) at 8 °C (CW8), 15 °C (CW15) or passive recovery (PAS).

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The aim of the study was to determine the reliability of parkour skills assessment in field conditions. Twenty young men completed three trials of a parkour obstacle course on two separate days. The tested group consisted of 10 beginners (age 16 ± 1 years, body mass = 65 ± 12 kg, height = 177 ± 7 cm) and 10 advanced traceurs (age 18 ± 2 years, body mass = 68 ± 14 kg, height = 178 ± 6 cm).

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Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability.

Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF.

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