Scalp condition improvement with botanical extracts possessing chemical and physical antioxidant activity.

Objective: Oxidative stress is implicated in scalp and hair health manifesting in several ways, including skin barrier, hair retention, healthy hair appearance and scalp sensation. We previously linked markers of oxidative damage to dandruff and skin barrier impairment and have linked key anti-dandruff technologies to the resolution of these issues. Here we expand the therapeutic space demonstrating many botanical extracts offer protective benefits against ROS stress via both chemical and biological antioxidant mechanisms.

Penetration of oils into hair.

Objective: The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.

Methods: LC-MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, Camellia oleifera oil and safflower seed oil.

The key phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) contributing to hair protection against UV.

Unlabelled: Extracts from rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus) are analysed for their phytochemistry using LC-MS and the phytochemistry identified. The same extracts were tested for their efficacy to act as antioxidants by both hydrogen-atom transfer (ORAC) and single electron transfer (FRAP). A correlation analysis was performed to identify the key phytochemistry responsible for antioxidant efficacy.

Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition.

Objective: The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.

Methods: Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS).

UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome.

Objective: Scalp hair is among the most exposed parts of the human body, yet the impact of visible and UV light on hair lipids, an important structural component of hair, is poorly researched. We have used lipidomics, a broad-based approach to measure lipids in samples, which has hitherto not been applied to UV-exposed hair in the published literature, and could allow for a wider understanding of how UV light impacts on specific hair lipids.

Methods: Mixed blonde Caucasian hair switches were divided into two groups of five, with half of the hair switches exposed to UV and visible light mimicking normal daytime exposure and half left unexposed.

Role of Redox Metals in Color Formation in a Hair Colorant.

The objective of this work was to identify if low levels of redox metals such as copper would accelerate color formation on hair and to understand the consequent impact on initial color formation and color fade. Kinetics of color formation with oxidative dyes in solution in the presence of varying concentrations of copper ions were assessed imaging and color measurements. Color uptake on hair and color fade were measured with a spectrophotometer, and copper levels in hair were measured with inductively coupled plasma atomic spectroscopy after hair digestion.

Molecular interaction and partitioning in α-keratin using H NMR spin-lattice () relaxation times.

The interactions between small molecules and keratins are poorly understood. In this paper, a nuclear magnetic resonance method is presented to measure changes in the H relaxation times of small molecules in human hair keratin to quantify their interaction with the fibre. Two populations of small-molecule compounds were identified with distinct relaxation times, demonstrating the partitioning of the compounds into different keratin environments.

Redox proteomics analysis of hair shaft proteins upon hydrothermal and alkaline insult.

Objective: Human hair is regularly subjected to chemical and physical insults, such as heat, UV-irradiation and alkaline hair care products. These insults result in molecular modifications at the hair protein level that underpin mechanical and sensory property changes in the fibres. These changes can manifest itself in reduced hair quality and performance attributes observable to the consumer.

Protection of hair from damage induced by ultraviolet irradiation using tea (Camellia sinensis) extracts.

Background: Damage to hair by UV is relevant to most people, and for many, it is a major source of hair damage. Prevention of UV damage is of high interest to cosmetic companies.

Objectives: Describe UV damage mechanisms and link these mechanisms to measurable changes in hair protein composition and color changes resulting from breakdown of yellow-colored kynurenines.

Nanoscale Mass Spectrometry Multimodal Imaging Tip-Enhanced Photothermal Desorption.

Materials ranging from adhesives, pharmaceuticals, lubricants, and personal care products are traditionally studied using macroscopic characterization techniques. However, their functionality is in reality defined by details of chemical organization on often noncrystalline matter with characteristic length scales on the order of microns to nanometers. Additionally, these materials are traditionally difficult to analyze using standard vacuum-based approaches that provide nanoscale chemical characterization due to their volatile and beam-sensitive nature.

Anomalous Fluorescence of White Hair Compared to Other Unpigmented Keratin Fibres.

Objective: To demonstrate that the tryptophan (Trp) fluorescence of natural white hair is much weaker than other unpigmented keratin fibres such as wool, cashmere, rabbit hair and mink fur, and to explore possible reasons for this behaviour. The origin of the blue visible fluorescence (~450 nm) excited by UVA radiation in the range 360-380 nm, often associated with Trp degradation products, is also discussed and compared to other fibrous and globular proteins.

Methods: As the fluorescence spectrum of keratin fibres usually contains at least two major features, a visual comparison is more effectively demonstrated by creating a 3D contour plot of excitation versus emission wavelength, which is sometimes referred to as an excitation emission matrix (EEM).

Role of Internal Lipids in Hair Health.

Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids make up 85% of the total hair lipid content and are found in the cuticle and cortical cell membrane complex. Although these lipids only make up 2-6% of the hair's overall weight, they play a crucial role in keeping hair healthy, influencing shine, feel, manageability, and strength. The objective of this work was to understand the mechanisms of how these lipids are lost on exposure to external stressors, such as chemical treatments, washing, and UV exposure and to understand how their loss impacts hair strength.

High-resolution visualization of cosmetic active compounds in hair using nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry.

A wide range of small molecules are used in our daily hair products to improve the appearance of hair and to protect it from damage from the environment. In order to better design formulations of these products, an understanding of the partitioning and distributions of these small molecules in hair is critical. In this study, we used preferential extraction methods to measure the partitioning of active compounds commonly found in hair cosmetic products on the hair surface and inside hair, and investigated the use of stable isotope labelling, cryo-sample preparation and nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS) for high-resolution visualization of distributions of these compounds.

Multimodal Evidence of Mesostructured Calcium Fatty Acid Deposits in Human Hair and Their Role on Hair Properties.

We provide the first conclusive evidence for the presence of exogenous calcium fatty acid deposits, which not only form in-between the cuticle layers in the lipid-rich cell membrane complex, but also grow to dimensions large enough to cause the structure to bulge, thereby impacting the optical and mechanical properties of the hair fiber. The composition and phase of these deposits were probed using a multimodal analytical approach with spatially resolved techniques including synchrotron micro X-ray fluorescence coupled with X-ray scattering, focused ion beam (FIB)-scanning electron microscopy (SEM), scanning transmission electron microscopy, X-ray energy dispersive spectroscopy, and Fourier transform infrared and Raman imaging where the collective analysis is consistent with a meso-phase composed of calcium C/C saturated fatty acids from natural sources such as sebum. X-ray microtomography and serial "slice and view" FIB/SEM both reveal the location and volumetric shape of the deposits.

Effect of humidity on photoinduced radicals in human hair.

EPR spectroscopy was used to monitor formation of free radicals in human hair upon UV irradiation. While the EPR spectra of brown hair were dominated by melanin signal, those of white hair were keratin-derived. The decay of UV induced keratin radicals was enhanced at increased ambient humidity.

Quantitative detection of chemical compounds in human hair with coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering microscopy.

Coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy is used to determine the distribution and concentration of selected compounds in intact human hair. By generating images based on ratiometric CARS contrast, quantitative concentration maps of both water and externally applied d-glycine are produced in the cortex of human hair fibers. Both water and d-glycine are found to homogeneously distribute throughout the cortical regions of the hair.

Hair coloring systems delivering color with reduced fiber damage.

The possible metal-induced formation of free radical species such as the hydroxyl radical (HO*) during the use of permanent hair coloring products has been demonstrated. These highly reactive species are formed from the reaction of hydrogen peroxide with redox metals such as copper, which are thought to be absorbed by the hair from the from-the-tap wash water. Formation of such radical species has been shown to lead to measurable keratin fiber damage.