Two fluorescent wavelengths, 440(ex)/520(em) nm and 370(ex)/440(em) nm, reflect advanced glycation and oxidation end products in human skin without diabetes.

Background: Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and oxidation products (OPs) play an important role in diabetes complications, aging, and damage from sun exposure. Measurement of skin autofluorescence (SAF) has been promoted as a noninvasive technique to measure skin AGEs, but the actual products quantified are uncertain. We have compared specific SAF measurements with analytically determined AGEs and oxidative biomarkers in skin collagen and determined if these measurements can be correlated with chronological aging and actinic exposure.

Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin.

Background: Differences in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnical background. But racial differences in skin have not been thoroughly investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory.

Objectives: This study was undertaken to compare skin barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum on African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin by objective measurements.

Modification of skin discoloration by a topical treatment containing an extract of Dianella ensifolia: a potent antioxidant.

Skin hyperpigmentation, and the reactions that precipitate it, have been linked to free radicals by the fact that free radical scavengers or antioxidants can slow that hyperpigmentation. We have screened several hundred plant extracts for antioxidants and discovered one that is both a strong antioxidant and can reduce skin hyperpigmentation. Extracts of Dianella ensifolia contain 1-(2,4-dihydrophenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl) propane (DP), which was found to inhibit the free radical 1-1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) with an EC(50) value of 78 mum.

Calculation of apparent age by linear combination of facial skin parameters: a predictive tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic treatments and to assess the predisposition to accelerated aging.

The estimated apparent age (EAA) was estimated by a panel of trained experts, for the individuals in a cohort. Twelve independent clinical, biophysical and biochemical parameters measured on facial skin, have been identified by multiple regression analysis, which influence the EAA of a person of chronological age (CA) (under eye lines, clinically assessed crow's feet, age spots, clinically evaluated firmness, forehead lines, pores, lip lines, instrumentally evaluated firmness, instrumentally evaluated crow feet, skin texture, in vivo fluorescence related to proliferation and glycation). An algorithm has been devised to obtain the calculated age score (CAS) in a cohort of 452 female volunteers, as CAS(n) = ∑RCiPi(n) (i = 1-13, n = 1-452 and P13 = 1) where the coefficients Ci are obtained by minimizing the difference EAA - CAS, and Pi(n) are the experimental values of the i-th parameter for the n-th volunteer.

Antioxidant enzyme activity in human stratum corneum shows seasonal variation with an age-dependent recovery.

The stratum corneum, as the body's principal barrier to the environment, is continuously exposed to environmental sources of reactive oxygen species like ultraviolet light, ozone, and pollution. Reactive oxygen species are believed to be involved in cancer, aging, and inflammatory skin disorders. We have developed a method to measure catalase and superoxide dismutase activity on tape strippings from the human stratum corneum and demonstrated a gradient of antioxidant enzyme activity across the stratum corneum with decreasing levels towards the skin surface.