Synthesis and characterisation of novel composite sunscreens containing both avobenzone and octocrylene motifs.

Avobenzone and octocrylene are popular sunscreen active ingredients. Experiments that probe the stability of avobenzone in binary mixtures with octocrylene are presented, together with the synthesis of a class of novel composite sunscreens that were designed by covalently linking avobenzone and octocrylene groups. Spectroscopy, both steady-state and time-resolved, of the fused molecules was performed to investigate the stability of the new molecules and their potential function as ultraviolet filters.

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy.

Avobenzone is an ultraviolet (UV) filter that is often included in sunscreen formulations despite its lack of photostability. Its inclusion is necessary due to few existing alternatives for photoprotection in the UVA region (320-400 nm). To better understand and predict the photostability of avobenzone, ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) has been used to study the effects of solvent (including emollients), concentration and skin surface temperature on its excited-state relaxation mechanism, following photoexcitation with UVA radiation (∼350 nm).

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate.

Homosalate (HMS) is a salicylate molecule that is commonly included within commercial sunscreen formulations to provide protection from the adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. In the present work, the mechanisms by which HMS provides UV photoprotection are unravelled, using a multi-pronged approach involving a combination of time-resolved ultrafast laser spectroscopy in the gas-phase and in solution, laser-induced fluorescence, steady-state absorption spectroscopy, and computational methods. The unique combination of these techniques allow us to show that the enol tautomer of HMS undergoes ultrafast excited state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) upon photoexcitation in the UVB (290-320 nm) region; once in the keto tautomer, the excess energy is predominantly dissipated non-radiatively.

Towards symmetry driven and nature inspired UV filter design.

In plants, sinapate esters offer crucial protection from the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation exposure. These esters are a promising foundation for designing UV filters, particularly for the UVA region (400 - 315 nm), where adequate photoprotection is currently lacking. Whilst sinapate esters are highly photostable due to a cis-trans (and vice versa) photoisomerization, the cis-isomer can display increased genotoxicity; an alarming concern for current cinnamate ester-based human sunscreens.