New Plant Extracts Exert Complementary Anti-Hair Loss Properties in Human In Vitro and Ex Vivo Models.

Background: Hair loss is linked to dysfunction of the growth (anagen), regression (catagen) and rest (telogen) phases of the hair follicle (HF) cycle.

Aims: To evaluate the effects of a Silybum marianum extract (SME), manganese PCA (MnPCA), and a Lespedeza capitata extract (LCE) on markers of hair growth and anchorage in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs), and to investigate the ability of a topical serum containing these active ingredients to improve HF growth in an ex vivo human scalp skin model.

Methods: In HFDPCs, we assessed receptor tyrosine kinase phosphorylation and Wnt/β-catenin pathway activation; quantified versican, vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and Dickkopf-1 (DDK1) secretion; and evaluated 5α-reductase (5αR) activity.

Effect of vehicle on the in vitro penetration and metabolism of genistein and daidzein in ex vivo skin explants and the Phenion full-thickness skin model.

In a read-across assessment of the safety of genistein and daidzein in cosmetic products, additional information was required to account for differences in their systemic exposure after topical application in a typical body lotion formulation. Therefore, we measured the penetration and metabolism of two doses (3 and 30 nmoles/cm) of genistein and daidzein applied in ethanol and in a body formulation to fresh pig skin, fresh and frozen human skin, and PhenionFT models. Both chemicals readily penetrated all skin models when applied in ethanol.

Multi-omics analysis to evaluate the effects of solar exposure and a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen on markers of skin barrier function in a skin ecosystem model.

Sun exposure induces major skin alterations, but its effects on skin metabolites and lipids remain largely unknown. Using an original reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with human microbiota and supplemented with human sebum, we previously showed that a single dose of simulated solar radiation (SSR) significantly impacted the skin metabolome and microbiota. In this article, we further analyzed SSR-induced changes on skin metabolites and lipids in the same RHE model.

Characterization of the forehead skin microbiome in the early phase of acne.

Background: The skin microbiota is known to be imbalanced in acne vulgaris, but the changes occurring during the early stages of acne onset remain poorly described.

Objectives: To characterize the skin microbiome of subclinical stages of acne in adults and adolescents.

Methods: The composition and diversity of the microbiota from non-lesional skin on the forehead of subjects with mild-to-moderate acne were compared to the ones from non-acne subjects.

A dermocosmetic product containing the sap of oat plantlets and Garcinia mangostana extract improves the clinical signs of acne.

Background: Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, characterized by papules, pustules and/or nodules manifesting primarily on the face and/or upper back that can leave scars, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and erythema (PIE).

Objective: To evaluate the anti-inflammatory properties of a protein-free sap extruded from Rhealba® oat plantlets and a Garcinia mangostana extract on Cutibacterium acnes-induced inflammation in vitro and assess the tolerability and efficacy of a dermocosmetic product containing these actives in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne.

Methods: Monocyte-derived dendritic cells (Mo-DCs) from acne patients were stimulated with a planktonic culture of C.

Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging.

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part II, protective action of solar filters.

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface.

Effect of a low-mineralized thermal spring water on skin barrier mechanical properties using atomic force microscopy.

The mineral content of thermal spring water (TSW) applied to the skin surface can directly influence the skin barrier. Indeed, our previous study showed that Avène TSW (ATSW), a low mineral content thermal spring water, protects the stratum corneum from dehydration compared to a mineral-rich TSW (MR-TSW) and maintains skin surface ultrastructure. While many TSWs have been recognized to have beneficial effects on skin, little is known about their localized and specific effects on skin barrier biomechanics at the nanometric scale.

Blue light impairs the repair of UVB-induced pyrimidine dimers in a human skin model.

In recent years, interest is growing in the biological cutaneous effects of high-energy visible light (400-450 nm). In the present study, we explored the impact of blue light (BL) on the repair of pyrimidine dimers, the major class of premutagenic DNA damage induced by exposure to sunlight. We unambiguously demonstrate that the exposure of in vitro reconstructed human epidermis to environmentally relevant doses of BL strongly decreases the rate of repair of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and pyrimidine (6-4) pyrimidone photoproducts induced by a subsequent UVB irradiation.

The facial microbiome and metabolome across different geographic regions.

Characterization of the skin microbiome and metabolome across geography will help uncover the climate factors behind the prevalence of skin disorders and provide suggestions for skincare products for people living in different geographic regions.

Nuclear and Urinary Measurements Show the Efficacy of Sun-Protection Factor 50+ Sunscreen against DNA Photoproducts upon Real-Life Recreational Exposure.

Sunscreens have been shown to protect against UVR-induced DNA damage in human skin under laboratory conditions. We presently extended these observations to real-life conditions in volunteers after their ordinary exposure habits during summer holidays. Volunteers were randomly assigned to a control group and an educated group supplied with a SPF ≥50 sunscreen and receiving instructions for use.

A Comprehensive Comparison of Tissue Processing Methods for High-Quality MALDI Imaging of Lipids in Reconstructed Human Epidermis.

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of and human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models.

Multi-omics approach to understand the impact of sun exposure on an in vitro skin ecosystem and evaluate a new broad-spectrum sunscreen.

A reconstructed human epidermal model (RHE) colonized with human microbiota and sebum was developed to reproduce the complexity of the skin ecosystem in vitro. The RHE model was exposed to simulated solar radiation (SSR) with or without SPF50+ sunscreen (with UVB, UVA, long-UVA, and visible light protection). Structural identification of discriminant metabolites was acquired by nuclear magnetic resonance and metabolomic fingerprints were identified using reverse phase-ultra high-performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry, followed by pathway enrichment analysis.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids.

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation.

Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts.

Objective: Skin ageing is linked to the accumulation of senescent cells and a "senescence-associated secretory phenotype" (SASP). SASP factors include chemokines, cytokines, and small extracellular vesicles (EVs) containing miRNAs. We characterized SASP profile markers in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and evaluated the effect of Haritaki fruit extract on these senescence markers.

Characterization of triglycerides photooxidation under solar radiations: A stepwise Raman study.

Triglycerides (TGs) are one of the main components of the glycerolipid family. Their main task in cells is to store excess fatty acids. TG energy storage is mainly concentrated in adipocytes.

Evaluation of a Novel Skin Emollient Cream on Skin Lipidome and Lipid Organization.

Introduction: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was measured.

Change in Cutibacterium acnes phylotype abundance and improvement of clinical parameters using a new dermocosmetic product containing Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts in patients with acne vulgaris.

Background: Acne is a multifactorial chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, where Cutibacterium acnes plays a main role. Recent papers demonstrated that specific C. acnes phylotypes were correlated with the severity of inflammatory acne and reported a specific loss of C.

Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts control together the pivotal role of Cutibacterium acnes and inflammatory pathways in acne.

Introduction: Acne is a multifactorial inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit in which Cutibacterium acnes is one of the main triggers. A strong predominance of C. acnes phylotype IA1 is present in acne skin with higher biofilm organization and virulence, promoting local immuno-inflammation, especially the Th17 pathway.

Recent advances in understanding inflammatory acne: Deciphering the relationship between Cutibacterium acnes and Th17 inflammatory pathway.

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous units. Four factors contribute to acne: hyperseborrhea and dysseborrhea, follicular hyperkeratinisation, skin microbiome dysbiosis and local immuno-inflammation. Recent key studies have highlighted a better understanding of the important role of Cutibacterium acnes (C.

Miniaturized Two-Dimensional Heart Cutting for LC-MS-Based Metabolomics.

Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS)-based metabolomics usually combines hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) and reversed-phase (RP) chromatography to cover a wide range of metabolomes, requiring both significant sample consumption and analysis time for separate workflows. We developed an integrated workflow enabling the coverage of both polar and nonpolar metabolites with only one injection of the sample for each ionization mode using heart-cutting trapping to combine HILIC and RP separations. This approach enables the trapping of some compounds eluted from the first chromatographic dimension for separation later in the second dimension.

DNA photoproducts released by repair in biological fluids as biomarkers of the genotoxicity of UV radiation.

UV-induced formation of photoproducts in DNA is a major initiating event of skin cancer. Consequently, many analytical tools have been developed for their quantification in DNA. In the present work, we extended our previous liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry method to the quantification of the short DNA fragments containing photoproducts that are released from cells by the repair machinery.