Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract.

Background: The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity-boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge.

Aims: The elasticity-boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers.

In vitro melanogenesis inhibitory effects of N-feruloyldopamine.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in the melanogenesis process. It remains the most efficient way to downregulate melanin production and improve unsightly pigmentary disorders. The aim of our investigations was to find a structurally characterized molecule with better efficacy than existing molecules without cell toxicity.

Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract.

Proopiomelanocortin is a precursor peptide that gives rise to several neuropeptides including adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and β-endorphin. POMC-derived peptides have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because we previously observed that melanocortin receptor-2 and μ-opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and β-endorphin decreased with ageing in human epidermis, we have selected an active ingredient (INCI name: Achillea millefolium extract) able to upregulate receptor expressions.

On the effects of a plant extract of Orthosiphon stamineus on sebum-related skin imperfections.

Overproduction of sebum is very common and results in an undesirable oily, shiny complexion with enlarged pores. Sebum secretion is basically under the control of 5-α reductase, and more particularly under that of type 1 isozyme. But it is also highly sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature, humidity and food.

In vitro and in vivo efficacy of sulfo-carrabiose, a sugar-based cosmetic ingredient with anti-cellulite properties.

Most of adult women exhibit cellulite on the hips, buttock and thighs. Although extracellular matrix and lymphatic system disorders can increase its appearance, cellulite basically results from an excessive fat storage in the adipose tissue which exerts considerable pressure on the surrounding skin tissue and creates a dimpled irregular appearance. Caffeine, the most widely used anti-cellulite ingredient, favours fat break-down by inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme and encouraging a high intracellular level of cAMP.